UV Sterilizer Problems, Equipment

Potential UV Sterilizer Problems, Equipment to Avoid

While this website/blog is meant to show research as well as more subjective reasons to utilize UVC Sterilization for ponds, aquariums, air purification, & surface/equipment disinfection; there are also pitfalls in methods and equipment that can make a “bad experience” in UV Sterilizer use/ownership (this is also how anecdotal statements about ineffective UVC Sterilizations starts too).

I will also preface this post/article to state that although many of my articles/posts here and elsewhere about UV Sterilization and its uses are based on good objective research from both myself and many others, this post/article is based more on use, feedback, observations and similar (although some of the forthcoming content is based on objective tests). In other words although I will be as objective as possible, this post also includes subjective commentary.

EQUIPMENT, UV STERILIZERS:

I will start this post/article off with some equipment that I do not recommend and why:

*Jebo UV Sterilizers: These Sterilizers have a couple of problems, first is that ballasts/transformers do not last and from mine and others in the professional Aquarium/pond maintenance business observations often fail in less than a year.
As well even when the transformers continue to work, Jebo often uses non industry standard UV Bulbs for their units, and example would be the 11 watt and 36 watt which utilize a bulb that is not of standard length making it more difficult to find a replacement and when this replacement can be found, it is often more expensive do to this problem.

*Tetra UV: Honestly I am not a fan of this company on so many levels of their aquatic products (& this goes back many years in the business and includes talking with others in the industry at trade shows that know Tetra and its products well).
However their UV Sterilizers generally work well and last well too. The problem with the Tetra UVs is that as with Jebo, Tetra also is constantly utilizing non industry standard UVC Bulbs. Luckily one manufacturer is only a step behind Tetra and so the G7 9 Watt UV Bulb and the G11 18 Watt Bulb that is non standard and VERY expensive if purchased from Tetra is available elsewhere.
The other problem is that Tetra (as with their fish foods and some other products) is that Tetra has done a good marketing job to convince many that a Tetra UV Sterilizer that often is twice the price is better than units such as the Terminator UV (which is of equal or better quality for often half the price).
If you are determined to spend more, why not get more and get a true high performance, high output UV Sterilizer for the same price such as the TMC Pond Advantage/Vecton Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilizer?

*Garden Treasures: A popular discount home improvement/hardware store brand that often fails within a year and has a poor design that is often very ineffective

*JBJ Submariner UV Sterilizer/Clarifier, Green Killing Machine Although an excellent idea in theory, this is a good example of what is often wrong with the aquarium/pet industry as many (including myself) thought this was a good idea in theory, in practical use it failed (I tested several through my aquarium maintenance company and related professional aquarium/pond community friends before I would sell to the general public). However most others, including some of the biggest names in internet Aquarium/Pet supplies purchased and sold these lemons without any testing which is sadly so typical any more.
Many such as PetStore.Com have since discontinued this UV Sterilizer.

The problem was not that they did not work, as they did, but only for a while before the seals failed and they shorted out. As well I should note that a company representative spammed a YouTube video about UV Sterilizer installation about their product and when I noted (in a reply comment) that I disagreed with this product based on use, they phoned me with the nastiest and most naïve comments I could ever fathom (keep in mind that I did not seek them out, they sought me out). In my view, this is not a company I could ever recommend giving business to.
Better would be to put together a proven yet economical Terminator (or Coralife, although a bit more pricy) UV Sterilizer and Internal Filter or power head combination or purchase a UV/Filter Kit that includes both.

OTHER POTENTIAL PROBLEMS:

I will just give a quick overview in this section, since I have expanded information in other articles dealing with much of this (in particular: UV Sterilization)

*Too high a flow rate for wattage of UVC: Although an over simplification, as just with aquarium lighting, more goes into UVC versus flow rate than pure wattage such as the design of the unit should only allow a gap of .3 cm between the UVC light bulb/quartz sleeve and the UV unit wall.
As a simple generalization, 20-25 gph (gallons per hours) per watt for most sterilization applications and 40-45 gph per watt for pond green water/algae control

*UVC Transmittance: This is the measured value of the difference between a known UVC light source and what is measured by a calibrated detector through a 1 cm thick sample of the water to be irradiated/treated. Water turbidity (dissolved waste particulates, DOC, etc.) in the water column have a profound affect on this.
I will likely write a specific article/post on the controversial subject of pre-filtration which can have a generally positive affect on UVC Transmittance.

*Failure to Change the UV Bulb on a Regular Schedule: This is a common problem that often leads to an ineffective UV Sterilizer. Your UV Bulb should be changed every six months for optimum performance in aquariums and 6-12 months for ponds (6 months in warm climate ponds).
As well the UV Sterilizer bulbs should be checked during regular aquarium maintenance just to make sure they are on in the first place and that the bulb or unit has not failed.
I myself have had UV Sterilizers and/or the bulbs fail prematurely fail and not notice (due to not including this check in weekly maintenance) until more obvious aquarium conditions presented themselves (in the most recent example the aquarium plants looked more thin/dirty, water clarity was less then perfect and the DOC and Detritus increased considerably in the aquarium).

Much more information about these last three points (& more) can be found in this article:
UV Sterilization

As well for an informative and friendly Aquarium Forum with a family atmosphere, consider Everything Aquatic Aquarium Forum

Aquarium Green Water

Pictures an UV Sterilizer System for the Clarification Green or Cloudy Water in Aquariums

This is a basic post that more entails the use of pictures that were provided to me courtesy Paul Phillips to demonstrate via photos the progress of tank water clarification with the use of a Custom 15 Watt UV Sterilizer/Clarifier

Please Click on all Pictures to enlarge for a better view

The first picture demonstrates his aquarium system showing the intake adapter, return adapter, the power head/pump, and the UV Sterilizer under the aquarium.
I would also suggest the use of a Pre filter such as the Filter Max #3 (or a Sponge Filter such as the Hydro Sponge #3) for improved UV Sterilization as this lowers debris/turbidity in the water column which in turn improves the effectiveness of the UV Sterilizer. Other than the lack of a form of prefiltration, this is an excellent set up.


This second picture demonstrates a before and after of this aquarium after the application of the UV Sterilizer:


This final photo demonstrates a day 1 through day 7 view of this same aquarium when viewed from the side panel (this view is through a 48 inch column of water and thus will show any cloudy/green water more readily):


As a final note, to maintain the effectiveness of this or any UV Sterilizer, the aquarium keeper should change the UV Bulb every six months; in this particular UV Sterilizer the required bulb is the G15T8 UV Bulb

I would also suggest reading this article in the section dealing with Cloudy & Green Water for other suggestions and causes of Green/Cloudy Water in freshwater aquariums:
Freshwater Aquarium Care, Information, Basics

UVC Air Purifers, Surface Disinfection

Use of UVC for Home or Office Air Purification & Surface Sterilization

Although most of the posts/articles in this weblog are aimed at Aquarium and Pond use of UV Sterilization/Purification, I think some time should be spent on another application for UVC radiation, especially with the onset of Flu season (including the H1N1 flu virus; AKA “the Swine Flu”). Hospitals have been employing UVC air purification systems for years do to their effectiveness in checking the spread of air borne pathogens.
Another pathogen generally spread by air is Tuberculosis; a person with Tuberculosis (TB) of the lungs or larynx can release droplets containing Mycobacterium tuberculosis into the air by coughing, sneezing, talking, or breathing. These droplets, called droplet nuclei, can cause TB infection if inhaled by anyone who shares air with the person who has Tuberculosis.

The influenza virus is actually one of the more easily destroyed pathogens by UV Radiation with only 6600 mW/cm2 required to kill this virus. Put simply, a 9 Watt UV bulb can kill this virus with an exposure time of 5.68 seconds. (See this article for further information about mW/cm2: “UVC, Watts, Microwatts, Joules, & light penetration”).
This makes for a very simple way of destroying many harmful pathogens in the home or office with an air purifier equipped with UVC bulbs.

Here are a few other pathogens and the required amount of UVC Radiation (given in mW/cm2):


This list is far from a complete list, as it is only intended to convey what the addition of UVC to an air (or even water) purification system can do for your home or office.

Ozone Production;
Generally most new Air Purifiers use non-ozone producing UVC bulbs; in fact the State of California has banned ozone producing air purifiers.
Please reference this article: http://www.arb.ca.gov/research/indoor/ozone.htm
However I should note that many air purifier manufacturers have switched to non-ozone producing UV bulbs (the aquarium/pond UV manufacturers have used non ozone producing UV bulbs as long as I have been in the industry). So if your air purifier is on the list of potentially hazardous units, chances are it is no longer is using ozone producing UVC bulbs. If you have an older unit that may employ the ozone producing bulbs, I would suggest simply switching these bulbs out with a new non ozone producing UV Bulb.

I would add as to ozone production and some of the negative reviews of some air purifiers; these reviews are all old and based on models that used ozone producing UV Bulbs from what I have read. My thought is that these headaches some complained of were due to ozone production. Headaches cannot be caused by contained non-ozone UVC purifiers.

Types;
The two most common types are the stand alone air purifier that employs UVC radiation in a shielded are of the unit or the in-Duct UV Air purifier that fits simply into most home or office air or ventilation systems.

The Sharper Image Ionic Breeze Air Purifier (pictured at the top of this article) has been around for some and employs a common 15 watt T8 UV bulb, however this unit has mixed reviews from many.

Bio zone makes several popular models of stand alone air purifiers and in duct air purifiers (pictured to the left).
Popular models include the 1000, 2000, & 3000 Air Purifiers along with the 1500 and 2500 in duct purifiers.
Most Bio zone products employ a T5 10 Watt UV Bulb

Another popular air purifier is the CaluTech “Blue” and Mini in-duct air purifiers. These in duct purifiers are simple to install and the two most popular models employ either the 18 Watt Twin Tube UV bulb (Mini) or the 36 Watt Twin Tube UV bulb (original “Blue”).

The picture below demonstrates and air duct before and after the installation of an in-duct UV purifier as per black mold (the left side is before, the right side is after):


Another device growing in popularity for home (& restaurant too) is the "Pocket Purifier"
The Purely Pocket Purifier has a built-in UVC light bulb (lamp) that when turned on and exposed to surface areas or items needing to be disinfected/purified, will destroy the germs and bacteria killing their DNA, and preventing them from reproducing and growing.








References:
*http://uvairpurifiers.com/
*http://www.americanairandwater.com/uv_facts/tb_uv.htm
* Study: Indoor Air Purifiers That Produce Ozone Are Unsafe
*UV Replacement Bulb Reference Guide for UVC Lamps

UV Sterilizer Questions/Myths Answered

More UV Sterilizer Questions/Myths Answered

In this post I will answer two questions (or possibly “myths”) about the use of UV Sterilizer in Aquariums and Ponds based on email and phone questions I often get.
The questions are:
• Filter placement in relation to UV Sterilizer in ponds.
• Danger of UV Sterilizers to copepods in reef aquariums.

(1) Question: Is the UV best placed after or before a filter in a pond?

This question is myth based as there are valid reasons for both applications.
However based on my own use and controlled tests using UV Sterilizers with filters before, after, or not at all, the answer of using the UV Sterilizer after the filter is the better choice.

Let me explain further; when placed before a pond filter with no pre-filtration, you do catch “clumped” algae coming from the UV Sterilizer (this is even more noteworthy when a UV is run a flow rate over 25 gph per watt to 50 gph per watt as this higher flow rate will generally not kill algae outright, rather “clump” the algae where it will be expelled from the UV Sterilizer into the pond water column, then it either falls to the bottom of the pond becoming pat of the organic mulm/detritus and/or may be picked up by the pump and filter and removed. This is a reason and the ONLY to place a filter after a UV Sterilizer in pond applications.

With previous paragraph in mind, the generally better way to utilize a filter with a UV Sterilizer is to place the filter prior to the UV Sterilizer. The reason is that turbidity in the water will lower UV Sterilizer effectiveness, sometimes (based on my tests) to levels that render the UV Sterilizer ineffective. This often results in the misinformed comment that UV Sterilizers do not work (based on emails and phone calls). Pre-filtering the water improves the function of UV Sterilizer by trapping larger particulates, thus allowing more of the UVC radiation to reach the algae that is causing green water (this also improves destruction of disease pathogens at lower flow rates in both aquariums and ponds).

The other reason for pre-filtration of pond water is I have often have had success in initial clarification of pond water with no pre-filtration, but over time (& sometimes only a few weeks), sludge will build up in the UV Sterilizer (often in recesses around the UV Bulb or quartz sleeve) rendering the UV Sterilizer/Clarifier useless. This doe not mean that pre-filtration does not prevent sludge from building, as it does not, but it most definitely slows down the accumulation of sludge, as well the time it takes to buildup sludge in your pond UV Sterilizer depends on water turbidity, algae, bio load and obviously the quality of your pre-filter.

*I should note that having both a pre-filter and a post filter (such as a DIY Bio falls or similar filter that fits into the water return prior to re-entering the pond) would be an excellent combination.

(2) Question: Will a UV Sterilizer kill off my beneficial copepod & other crustaceans colonies in my reef tank?

Although not as common a question as the previous question, it still crops up from time to time and I have much harder time understanding why otherwise quite advanced reef keeper fall for what amounts to a UV Sterilizer myth.
As well, my controlled studies admittedly did not include exact counts of copepods with different levels of UV Sterilization or none at all, it did show that copepod colonies when properly established never diminished with UV Sterilizer use in reef tanks.

There is simple explanation for this result; that is most copepods do not occupy the water column in a healthy colony. What is a healthy colony? This is a matter of opinion or experience, but from my perspective a healthy colony is “housed” in large piles of live rock crumbles where many fish such as Mandarin Gobies will seek them out. As well if you are using a Refugium and want to be certain that all of the copepods/ crustaceans that spill out into the aquarium are not killed, then be sure your UV is on its own filter/pump and not returning water to the aquarium using the same return line as the Refugium. Finally whenever you dose your aquarium with certain live products such as live planktonic algae or infusoria, you should turn off the UV sterilizer or use a timer that is tied to certain cycles or automatic dosing.

My final comment to this amounts to another aquarium keeping myth, is one that has made me laugh over the years; and that is I have had clients/customers that have stood by this myth describe or show me their filter system and I have seen (or had them described) several of these filter systems that employ micron filters (such as the Ocean Clear) that can easily trap copepods in their micron filters much more effectively than a UV Sterilizer can kill copepods (in particular adult copepods for which a UV Sterilizer would have to run well under 10 gph per watt to have any chance of destroying any “pods” that get caught in the sterilizer). As well pre-filtration which should be used in any UV Sterilizer application will trap most adult copepods from entering the Sterilizer.
What makes me laugh here is that these same aquarists often had healthy copepod colonies with the use of these Micron Filters (which by the way I am not against the use of, in fact I think are excellent compliments to other aquarium filters, live rock, and healthy deep sand beds). I would explain to them that if these filters did not destroy their “pod” colonies, a UV Sterilize would not either.

Please see this article for more about UV Sterilization and how it works:
UV Sterilization

UVC irradiation and immune response

UVC irradiation and immune response
This includes human research into BioPhotonic Therapy and UVBI Therapy

This article/post is meant to expand on my previous article “Fish Immune System and UV Sterilization”), this time utilizing information about UVC irradiation as per human studies and its affect on disease treatment and over all health.
While the application to fish in aquariums/ponds is somewhat “apples to oranges” in comparison at this point in time, the implications are certainly far reaching as to the affect on Aquatic Redox and fish health.

Since most in depth research is found in human studies to do to the costs involved vs. the unfortunately common anecdotal comments made about UV Sterilization in the aquarium hobby that are years behind real research, this is where one needs to go to find good and cutting edge research. In fact I just recently came across this gem of a post of anecdotal bad information from an otherwise good aquatic article: “For me, a UV filter is just a ‘feel good’ device and leads hobbyists into a false sense of security” It is too bad that so many aquarium keepers simply refuse to do their homework, but this is likely to continue considering how lazy many persons can be at times (otherwise how can you explain the popularity of such terrible sites for aquatic information such as Yahoo Answers among many others, or directories such as DMOZ with its outdated directories).

The concept of BioPhotonic Therapy and UVBI Therapy was brought to my attention in an email and phone call by a researcher (Dr. Mamoon Kundi) who found me via my UV and Redox research articles.
One concept is clear and that is that the use of UVC lamps can affect both the oxidizing and reducing side of the Redox Balance equation that is so important for life.

Studies in UV Irradiation

In these studies, blood is irradiated (via different methods), often with very pronounced results. William Campbell Douglass, MD, who treats his patients using only alternatives and has written several books on these subjects, wrote a book called Into the Light, where he recommends Photoluminescence Therapy for the following conditions:
• Immune deficiency problems
• Viral Infections (hepatitis, respiratory, etc.)
• Pneumonia
• Non-healing wounds and wound infections
• Emphysema
• Inflammatory Processes: fibrositis (inflammation of, mainly, the muscle sheath), bursitis, iritis (inflammation of the iris), pancreatitis, etc
• Autoimmune diseases: rheumatoid arthritis, AIDS, etc.
• Osteomyelitis (bacterial infection of the bone marrow)
• Septicemia (virulent infection of the blood)
• Cancer (experimental at present)
• Peripheral vascular disease
• Most vascular disease
• Thrombophlebitis (inflammation of a blood vessel that results in blood clots)


Implications of this research as per aquariums/ponds
While we as aquarium and pond keepers are not too likely to utilize these UV blood irradiation therapies on our fish, this still has implications as to how a UV Sterilizer can be an important part of ANY aquarium keeper’s (or pond keeper) filtration system in that this latest research backs up many of my own tests and research going back to the early 1990s. The implications of the affect of the UV irradiation on how it may not necessarily outright kill pathogenic microbes found in the water column, however it certainly allows for an improved fish immune system response to pathogens, which is one of my earlier findings as well (although I did not know the whys of my test results back then). The affect of UVC irradiation also has a positive affect on Aquarium Redox Balance which is also important for aquatic health.

The bottom line is this is just one more piece of evidence that a correctly installed UV Sterilizer should be part of every serious aquarist filtration system, especially those who keep expensive, rare, or delicate fish.

Please read or at least glance over these referenced articles (more to come too):

*http://www.bio-photonictherapy.info/Home_Page.html
*http://www.oxygenhealingtherapies.com/uvb_therapy.html
*http://www.healing.org/only-7.html

As well as my UV Sterilization Article

UVC, Watts, Microwatts

UVC, Watts, Microwatts, Joules, & light penetration

This article/post is intended to give some basic understanding between the relationship of watts, microwatts, joules of UVC energy and how this translates to UV Sterilizer effectiveness.

Please keep in mind that the diagram in this article is based on air penetration, so some extrapolation is necessary for use in water applications (which is the primary intention of this article, although the principles apply to UVC air sterilization devices as well)

What is a Watt/Microwatt?

One Joule of energy = 1,000 milliWatt seconds = 1,000,000 microWatt seconds
One joule is the amount of energy required to perform the following actions:

• The work done by a force of one newton traveling through a distance of one meter (a newton is the unit of force equal to the amount of force required to accelerate a mass of one kilogram at a rate of one meter per second per second);
• The work required to move an electric charge of one coulomb (the amount of electric charge transported by a current of 1 ampere in 1 second) through an electrical potential difference of one volt; or one coulomb volt, with the symbol C•V;
• The work done to produce power of one watt continuously for one second; or one watt second (compare kilowatt hour), with the symbol W•s. Thus a kilowatt hour is 3,600,000 joules or 3.6 megajoules;
• The kinetic energy of a 2 kg mass moving at a velocity of 1 m/s. The energy is linear in the mass but quadratic in the velocity, being given by E = ½mv²;
we measure UV-C intensity in Micro-Watts that strike one square centimeter of surface area.

UVC Penetration:
(From UV Sterilization; how it works for aquariums, ponds, & more)

The emission or light intensity of a UVC germicidal light bulb is usually expressed in a term called "microwatts per square centimeter" (Mw/cm2). The maximum intensity provided by a single UVC Bulb is at its surface. So, if we calculate the surface area of the UVC lamp and only use that area which effectively emits UVC light rays, the effective area of UVC transmission will be established. Basic mathematics will show that the surface area of a cylindrical tube is ‘pie’ D L.

Next extrapolate this effective area of UVC transmission as having a screen with squares 1 centimeter in size. Each of these cm2 areas now, for measurement purposes, emits a UVC lamp intensity measured in microwatts, in other words; the term microwatts/cm2. UVC light intensity decreasingly varies as the distance from the UVC light increases.

Put more simply (a non scientific analogy); The amount of wattage will also increase penetration, as a higher watt UVC bulb will generally have more Mw/cm2. In my own experiments I have used 15 watt and 25 watt UVC bulbs in exactly the same unit (both were 18”), if wattage were only considered there would be a 60% increase in effectiveness, however I only observed a about a 25% increase. When I used a 30 Watt UVC bulb in a unit with over twice the exposure as the 15 Watt, the kill rate more than doubled. From my experience, if you increase wattage (and Mw/cm2) you need to also increase the volume of water to maximize the higher watt bulb.
Experiments can also be safely conducted with standard household light bulbs to correlate penetration. For this start with a 7 watt clear bulb (such as a Christmas bulb) and place varying thicknesses of paper/ cardboard in front of the bulb and measure when penetration stops. Continue this with higher and higher wattage bulbs.

The Diagram to the left can give a rough comparison of distance as per UVC energy as expressed by MW/cm2 in Air transmission.
The dose applied by an UV-C lamp installation is a function of the lamp output, the intensity factor, and time. As an equation; Intensity x Exposure time= microwatt seconds/cm2.
As an example, a 9 watt UVC lamp at one inch from the lamp is found by this formula:
9 x 127 = 1143 mW/cm2.
Since many bacteria such as Vibrio require a UVC exposure of 6500 mW/cm2 or more, this means an exposure time of 5.68 seconds is required to kill this pathogen


Now let me point out that even though I have published this diagram, please use this as a rough guide only, as I have found inaccuracies in it. To be more blunt; I have found the distance, wattage, and flow rate to be the MOST IMPORTANT factors in determining exposure/effectiveness. This diagram is STATIC and does NOT take into consideration the dynamics of UVC radiation penetration for which I have yet to find a good formula to demonstrate this (even in University studies).
What is often missing in any equations I have seen is the dynamics of water flow geometry, actual water flow, and wattage. The bottom line is to use this table and others you might find elsewhere with “a grain of salt” noting that these are static and even then are flawed when true output via wattage is taken into consideration.

Further Reading, references:

* UV Sterilization; how it works for aquariums, ponds, & more

*http://www.hygienitech.com/Hygienitech%20UV-C%20Light%20Primer.pdf

*http://www.solartanic.com/index_022.htm

Aquarium UV Sterilizer Ideas

Aquarium UV Sterilizer Ideas; Part Two

In part one about 18 months ago I noted using intake and return adapters as another way to connect UV Sterilizers to aquariums, especially smaller aquariums where the use of more traditional set ups such as canister filter or sumps is not possible.
In this article I will expand on this idea and as well note some problems with many sump set ups and with the growing popularity of internal UV Sterilizers, which although they make work, they are prone to leak problems that usually result in a short lifespan.

First I will start with the use of power heads, pumps, or Internal Filters (which is my first choice do to pre filtration of water allowing for a more effective UV Sterilizer).

Here is a basic picture for plumbing a compact UV Sterilizer using an Internal Filter or Power Head. The lines and can be much more neatly placed than the diagram (this is just for emphasis). This demonstration is shown on the front of the tank for easier viewing, obviously this would be placed on the back of an aquarium.
You may also place your power head/ internal filter on its side for an easier tubing application.
The picture can be enlarged by clicking on it too!

The advantage of this set up is it allows a small (or larger aquarium) that may only have a HOB filter such as a Whisper to also have a UV Sterilizer PLUS more filtration and filter redundancy.
In all bluntness this type of set up is not all that expensive when you consider the costs of fish and medications or simply piece of mind that a UV Sterilizer can provide in improving water quality (such as Redox) and lower water borne disease incidence. This is not to say that a UV Sterilizer will solve all your problems, but they are often a major piece of the good water parameter puzzle and in my experience should be included in most aquarium set ups if at all possible. Please see this article for more why: UV Sterilization

Here is a picture of an inexpensive set up that starts at $83.99 and is ready to go for an aquarium as small as a 10 gallon aquarium (there are set ups such as the 9 watt that would easily work for a 100 gallon aquarium)
Please follow this link for more information about these kits: Terminator UV Sterilizers/ Filter Kits
Please click pictures to enlarge

INTERNAL UV STERILIZERS

With the above kit or similar in mind, please be careful of the relatively new Internal UV Sterilizers sold under a couple of brand names (same design) BUT rejected by several wholesalers and retailers due to the fact that they tend to leak internally damaging, destroying the electrical components of the Unit often resulting in complete failure in under a year. I personally rejected these units after Kokaho Aquarium and other users of these Internal UV Sterilizers found total failure of most or all of them within a year or often much sooner.
What is even worse is that a manufacturer of the most popular of these internal UVs had someone spam my YouTube video demonstration of how to install a custom UV on an aquarium using Internal Filters and I commented on their clear attempt to push this product that I in good conscience could not recommend (in fact I noted in my comment that it was an awesome idea, which it is, but failed in practicality). They had the audacity to call ME unprofessional implying that I had gone to their Video when in fact that were trying to peddle their product via a comment on my video (or for clarification someone who used one of them). I think I have a right to comment on my own video!!!
They also ended up with name calling when they could not change my mind stating that "I needed help".
Honestly in my opinion this is an act of desperation by a company that may have a good concept, but is failing to sell many due to the fact that many in this industry but for a few less than honest retailers refuse to stock these Internal UV Sterilizers (or "algae killing machines").
What is also sad, is that many have criticized me for some of the unique products I do sell (such as the Wonder Shell, Aquarium Cleaning Machine), yet I only sell/use in my service items that I and others in professionally aquarium maintenance use. In the case of the JBJ and other internal UV Sterilizers I would have loved for these to work, as I think this is a good idea, but I cannot honestly sell something that I know has flaws that will lead to product failure somewhere down the road. Basically I am in a can’t win situation with some people; damned if I recommend or damned if I don’t (as in the case of these junky Internal UV Sterilizers)!

SUMP USE of UV STERILIZERS

A popular use of UV Sterilizers is in the sumps of high flow sump systems of large aquariums (especially marine), unfortunately the majority that I have seen when called out on service calls were installed improperly often resulting in the owner of the system to pronounce the UV Sterilizer a "failure" when in actuality the flow rate was way to fast for the UV Sterilizer wattage installed. As a generalization it is best to have a flow rate of under 20-30 gph per watt for a UV to be effective for bacteria, Redox, algae (slower yet for parasites) This flow rate can vary based on many factors that I will go into here (I recommend reading the link earlier in this article for more on this subject), I will only state that although you do not need to pay a fortune for a UV Sterilizer, most of the units selling for under $50 are junk and even a few name brands selling for over $100 are not delivering what you pay for.


UV Sterilizer Diverter Valves are the answer to most high flow pump problems; For use with ponds, sumps, or any high flow water application where the flow rate exceeds the recommended GPH per watt.
See this site for more: UV Sterilizer Diverter Valves