Aquarium and pond UV Sterilizer

UVC Air Purifers

2009-10-13T09:14:00.001-07:00

Use of UVC for Home or Office Air Purification

Although most of the posts/articles in this weblog are aimed at Aquarium and Pond use of UV Sterilization/Purification, I think some time should be spent on another application for UVC radiation, especially with the onset of Flu season (including the H1N1 flu virus; AKA “the Swine Flu”). Hospitals have been employing UVC air purification systems for years do to their effectiveness in checking the spread of air borne pathogens.
Another pathogen generally spread by air is Tuberculosis; a person with Tuberculosis (TB) of the lungs or larynx can release droplets containing Mycobacterium tuberculosis into the air by coughing, sneezing, talking, or breathing. These droplets, called droplet nuclei, can cause TB infection if inhaled by anyone who shares air with the person who has Tuberculosis.

The influenza virus is actually one of the more easily destroyed pathogens by UV Radiation with only 6600 mW/cm2 required to kill this virus. Put simply, a 9 Watt UV bulb can kill this virus with an exposure time of 5.68 seconds. (See this article for further information about mW/cm2: “UVC, Watts, Microwatts, Joules, & light penetration”).
This makes for a very simple way of destroying many harmful pathogens in the home or office with an air purifier equipped with UVC bulbs.

Here are a few other pathogens and the required amount of UVC Radiation (given in mW/cm2):

This list is far from a complete list, as it is only intended to convey what the addition of UVC to an air (or even water) purification system can do for your home or office.

Ozone Production;
Generally most new Air Purifiers use non-ozone producing UVC bulbs; in fact the State of California has banned ozone producing air purifiers.
Please reference this article: http://www.arb.ca.gov/research/indoor/ozone.htm
However I should note that many air purifier manufacturers have switched to non-ozone producing UV bulbs (the aquarium/pond UV manufacturers have used non ozone producing UV bulbs as long as I have been in the industry). So if your air purifier is on the list of potentially hazardous units, chances are it is no longer is using ozone producing UVC bulbs. If you have an older unit that may employ the ozone producing bulbs, I would suggest simply switching these bulbs out with a new non ozone producing UV Bulb.

I would add as to ozone production and some of the negative reviews of some air purifiers; these reviews are all old and based on models that used ozone producing UV Bulbs from what I have read. My thought is that these headaches some complained of were due to ozone production. Headaches cannot be caused by contained non-ozone UVC purifiers.

Types;
The two most common types are the stand alone air purifier that employs UVC radiation in a shielded are of the unit or the in-Duct UV Air purifier that fits simply into most home or office air or ventilation systems.

The Sharper Image Ionic Breeze Air Purifier (pictured at the top of this article) has been around for some and employs a common 15 watt T8 UV bulb, however this unit has mixed reviews from many.

Bio zone makes several popular models of stand alone air purifiers and in duct air purifiers (pictured to the left).
Popular models include the 1000, 2000, & 3000 Air Purifiers along with the 1500 and 2500 in duct purifiers.
Most Bio zone products employ a T5 10 Watt UV Bulb

Another popular air purifier is the CaluTech “Blue” and Mini in-duct air purifiers. These in duct purifiers are simple to install and the two most popular models employ either the 18 Watt Twin Tube UV bulb (Mini) or the 36 Watt Twin Tube UV bulb (original “Blue”).

The picture below demonstrates and air duct before and after the installation of an in-duct UV purifier as per black mold (the left side is before, the right side is after):

References:
*http://uvairpurifiers.com/
*http://www.americanairandwater.com/uv_facts/tb_uv.htm
* Study: Indoor Air Purifiers That Produce Ozone Are Unsafe
*UV Replacement Bulb Reference Guide for UVC Lamps

UV Sterilizer Questions/Myths Answered

2009-09-01T13:10:00.001-07:00

More UV Sterilizer Questions/Myths Answered

In this post I will answer two questions (or possibly “myths”) about the use of UV Sterilizer in Aquariums and Ponds based on email and phone questions I often get.
The questions are:
• Filter placement in relation to UV Sterilizer in ponds.
• Danger of UV Sterilizers to copepods in reef aquariums.

(1) Question: Is the UV best placed after or before a filter in a pond?

This question is myth based as there are valid reasons for both applications.
However based on my own use and controlled tests using UV Sterilizers with filters before, after, or not at all, the answer of using the UV Sterilizer after the filter is the better choice.

Let me explain further; when placed before a pond filter with no pre-filtration, you do catch “clumped” algae coming from the UV Sterilizer (this is even more noteworthy when a UV is run a flow rate over 25 gph per watt to 50 gph per watt as this higher flow rate will generally not kill algae outright, rather “clump” the algae where it will be expelled from the UV Sterilizer into the pond water column, then it either falls to the bottom of the pond becoming pat of the organic mulm/detritus and/or may be picked up by the pump and filter and removed. This is a reason and the ONLY to place a filter after a UV Sterilizer in pond applications.

With previous paragraph in mind, the generally better way to utilize a filter with a UV Sterilizer is to place the filter prior to the UV Sterilizer. The reason is that turbidity in the water will lower UV Sterilizer effectiveness, sometimes (based on my tests) to levels that render the UV Sterilizer ineffective. This often results in the misinformed comment that UV Sterilizers do not work (based on emails and phone calls). Pre-filtering the water improves the function of UV Sterilizer by trapping larger particulates, thus allowing more of the UVC radiation to reach the algae that is causing green water (this also improves destruction of disease pathogens at lower flow rates in both aquariums and ponds).

The other reason for pre-filtration of pond water is I have often have had success in initial clarification of pond water with no pre-filtration, but over time (& sometimes only a few weeks), sludge will build up in the UV Sterilizer (often in recesses around the UV Bulb or quartz sleeve) rendering the UV Sterilizer/Clarifier useless. This doe not mean that pre-filtration does not prevent sludge from building, as it does not, but it most definitely slows down the accumulation of sludge, as well the time it takes to buildup sludge in your pond UV Sterilizer depends on water turbidity, algae, bio load and obviously the quality of your pre-filter.

*I should note that having both a pre-filter and a post filter (such as a DIY Bio falls or similar filter that fits into the water return prior to re-entering the pond) would be an excellent combination.

(2) Question: Will a UV Sterilizer kill off my beneficial copepod & other crustaceans colonies in my reef tank?

Although not as common a question as the previous question, it still crops up from time to time and I have much harder time understanding why otherwise quite advanced reef keeper fall for what amounts to a UV Sterilizer myth.
As well, my controlled studies admittedly did not include exact counts of copepods with different levels of UV Sterilization or none at all, it did show that copepod colonies when properly established never diminished with UV Sterilizer use in reef tanks.

There is simple explanation for this result; that is most copepods do not occupy the water column in a healthy colony. What is a healthy colony? This is a matter of opinion or experience, but from my perspective a healthy colony is “housed” in large piles of live rock crumbles where many fish such as Mandarin Gobies will seek them out. As well if you are using a Refugium and want to be certain that all of the copepods/ crustaceans that spill out into the aquarium are not killed, then be sure your UV is on its own filter/pump and not returning water to the aquarium using the same return line as the Refugium. Finally whenever you dose your aquarium with certain live products such as live planktonic algae or infusoria, you should turn off the UV sterilizer or use a timer that is tied to certain cycles or automatic dosing.

My final comment to this amounts to another aquarium keeping myth, is one that has made me laugh over the years; and that is I have had clients/customers that have stood by this myth describe or show me their filter system and I have seen (or had them described) several of these filter systems that employ micron filters (such as the Ocean Clear) that can easily trap copepods in their micron filters much more effectively than a UV Sterilizer can kill copepods (in particular adult copepods for which a UV Sterilizer would have to run well under 10 gph per watt to have any chance of destroying any “pods” that get caught in the sterilizer). As well pre-filtration which should be used in any UV Sterilizer application will trap most adult copepods from entering the Sterilizer.
What makes me laugh here is that these same aquarists often had healthy copepod colonies with the use of these Micron Filters (which by the way I am not against the use of, in fact I think are excellent compliments to other aquarium filters, live rock, and healthy deep sand beds). I would explain to them that if these filters did not destroy their “pod” colonies, a UV Sterilize would not either.

Please see this article for more about UV Sterilization and how it works:
UV Sterilization

UVC irradiation and immune response

2009-05-08T13:21:00.001-07:00

UVC irradiation and immune response
This includes human research into BioPhotonic Therapy and UVBI Therapy

This article/post is meant to expand on my previous article “Fish Immune System and UV Sterilization”), this time utilizing information about UVC irradiation as per human studies and its affect on disease treatment and over all health.
While the application to fish in aquariums/ponds is somewhat “apples to oranges” in comparison at this point in time, the implications are certainly far reaching as to the affect on Aquatic Redox and fish health.

Since most in depth research is found in human studies to do to the costs involved vs. the unfortunately common anecdotal comments made about UV Sterilization in the aquarium hobby that are years behind real research, this is where one needs to go to find good and cutting edge research. In fact I just recently came across this gem of a post of anecdotal bad information from an otherwise good aquatic article: “For me, a UV filter is just a ‘feel good’ device and leads hobbyists into a false sense of security” It is too bad that so many aquarium keepers simply refuse to do their homework, but this is likely to continue considering how lazy many persons can be at times (otherwise how can you explain the popularity of such terrible sites for aquatic information such as Yahoo Answers among many others, or directories such as DMOZ with its outdated directories).

The concept of BioPhotonic Therapy and UVBI Therapy was brought to my attention in an email and phone call by a researcher (Dr. Mamoon Kundi) who found me via my UV and Redox research articles.
One concept is clear and that is that the use of UVC lamps can affect both the oxidizing and reducing side of the Redox Balance equation that is so important for life.

Studies in UV Irradiation

In these studies, blood is irradiated (via different methods), often with very pronounced results. William Campbell Douglass, MD, who treats his patients using only alternatives and has written several books on these subjects, wrote a book called Into the Light, where he recommends Photoluminescence Therapy for the following conditions:
• Immune deficiency problems
• Viral Infections (hepatitis, respiratory, etc.)
• Pneumonia
• Non-healing wounds and wound infections
• Emphysema
• Inflammatory Processes: fibrositis (inflammation of, mainly, the muscle sheath), bursitis, iritis (inflammation of the iris), pancreatitis, etc
• Autoimmune diseases: rheumatoid arthritis, AIDS, etc.
• Osteomyelitis (bacterial infection of the bone marrow)
• Septicemia (virulent infection of the blood)
• Cancer (experimental at present)
• Peripheral vascular disease
• Most vascular disease
• Thrombophlebitis (inflammation of a blood vessel that results in blood clots)

Implications of this research as per aquariums/ponds
While we as aquarium and pond keepers are not too likely to utilize these UV blood irradiation therapies on our fish, this still has implications as to how a UV Sterilizer can be an important part of ANY aquarium keeper’s (or pond keeper) filtration system in that this latest research backs up many of my own tests and research going back to the early 1990s. The implications of the affect of the UV irradiation on how it may not necessarily outright kill pathogenic microbes found in the water column, however it certainly allows for an improved fish immune system response to pathogens, which is one of my earlier findings as well (although I did not know the whys of my test results back then). The affect of UVC irradiation also has a positive affect on Aquarium Redox Balance which is also important for aquatic health.

The bottom line is this is just one more piece of evidence that a correctly installed UV Sterilizer should be part of every serious aquarist filtration system, especially those who keep expensive, rare, or delicate fish.

Please read or at least glance over these referenced articles (more to come too):

*http://www.bio-photonictherapy.info/Home_Page.html
*http://www.oxygenhealingtherapies.com/uvb_therapy.html
*http://www.healing.org/only-7.html

As well as my UV Sterilization Article

UVC, Watts, Microwatts

2009-03-09T08:15:00.001-07:00

UVC, Watts, Microwatts, Joules, & light penetration

This article/post is intended to give some basic understanding between the relationship of watts, microwatts, joules of UVC energy and how this translates to UV Sterilizer effectiveness.

Please keep in mind that the diagram in this article is based on air penetration, so some extrapolation is necessary for use in water applications (which is the primary intention of this article, although the principles apply to UVC air sterilization devices as well)

What is a Watt/Microwatt?

One Joule of energy = 1,000 milliWatt seconds = 1,000,000 microWatt seconds
One joule is the amount of energy required to perform the following actions:

• The work done by a force of one newton traveling through a distance of one meter (a newton is the unit of force equal to the amount of force required to accelerate a mass of one kilogram at a rate of one meter per second per second);
• The work required to move an electric charge of one coulomb (the amount of electric charge transported by a current of 1 ampere in 1 second) through an electrical potential difference of one volt; or one coulomb volt, with the symbol C•V;
• The work done to produce power of one watt continuously for one second; or one watt second (compare kilowatt hour), with the symbol W•s. Thus a kilowatt hour is 3,600,000 joules or 3.6 megajoules;
• The kinetic energy of a 2 kg mass moving at a velocity of 1 m/s. The energy is linear in the mass but quadratic in the velocity, being given by E = ½mv²;
we measure UV-C intensity in Micro-Watts that strike one square centimeter of surface area.

UVC Penetration:
(From UV Sterilization; how it works for aquariums, ponds, & more)

The emission or light intensity of a UVC germicidal light bulb is usually expressed in a term called "microwatts per square centimeter" (Mw/cm2). The maximum intensity provided by a single UVC Bulb is at its surface. So, if we calculate the surface area of the UVC lamp and only use that area which effectively emits UVC light rays, the effective area of UVC transmission will be established. Basic mathematics will show that the surface area of a cylindrical tube is ‘pie’ D L.

Next extrapolate this effective area of UVC transmission as having a screen with squares 1 centimeter in size. Each of these cm2 areas now, for measurement purposes, emits a UVC lamp intensity measured in microwatts, in other words; the term microwatts/cm2. UVC light intensity decreasingly varies as the distance from the UVC light increases.

Put more simply (a non scientific analogy); The amount of wattage will also increase penetration, as a higher watt UVC bulb will generally have more Mw/cm2. In my own experiments I have used 15 watt and 25 watt UVC bulbs in exactly the same unit (both were 18”), if wattage were only considered there would be a 60% increase in effectiveness, however I only observed a about a 25% increase. When I used a 30 Watt UVC bulb in a unit with over twice the exposure as the 15 Watt, the kill rate more than doubled. From my experience, if you increase wattage (and Mw/cm2) you need to also increase the volume of water to maximize the higher watt bulb.
Experiments can also be safely conducted with standard household light bulbs to correlate penetration. For this start with a 7 watt clear bulb (such as a Christmas bulb) and place varying thicknesses of paper/ cardboard in front of the bulb and measure when penetration stops. Continue this with higher and higher wattage bulbs.

The Diagram to the left can give a rough comparison of distance as per UVC energy as expressed by MW/cm2 in Air transmission.
The dose applied by an UV-C lamp installation is a function of the lamp output, the intensity factor, and time. As an equation; Intensity x Exposure time= microwatt seconds/cm2.
As an example, a 9 watt UVC lamp at one inch from the lamp is found by this formula:
9 x 127 = 1143 mW/cm2.
Since many bacteria such as Vibrio require a UVC exposure of 6500 mW/cm2 or more, this means an exposure time of 5.68 seconds is required to kill this pathogen

Now let me point out that even though I have published this diagram, please use this as a rough guide only, as I have found inaccuracies in it. To be more blunt; I have found the distance, wattage, and flow rate to be the MOST IMPORTANT factors in determining exposure/effectiveness. This diagram is STATIC and does NOT take into consideration the dynamics of UVC radiation penetration for which I have yet to find a good formula to demonstrate this (even in University studies).
What is often missing in any equations I have seen is the dynamics of water flow geometry, actual water flow, and wattage. The bottom line is to use this table and others you might find elsewhere with “a grain of salt” noting that these are static and even then are flawed when true output via wattage is taken into consideration.

Further Reading, references:

* UV Sterilization; how it works for aquariums, ponds, & more

*http://www.hygienitech.com/Hygienitech%20UV-C%20Light%20Primer.pdf

*http://www.solartanic.com/index_022.htm

Aquarium UV Sterilizer Ideas

2008-11-29T19:44:00.000-08:00

Aquarium UV Sterilizer Ideas; Part Two

In part one about 18 months ago I noted using intake and return adapters as another way to connect UV Sterilizers to aquariums, especially smaller aquariums where the use of more traditional set ups such as canister filter or sumps is not possible.
In this article I will expand on this idea and as well note some problems with many sump set ups and with the growing popularity of internal UV Sterilizers, which although they make work, they are prone to leak problems that usually result in a short lifespan.

First I will start with the use of power heads, pumps, or Internal Filters (which is my first choice do to pre filtration of water allowing for a more effective UV Sterilizer).

Here is a basic picture for plumbing a compact UV Sterilizer using an Internal Filter or Power Head. The lines and can be much more neatly placed than the diagram (this is just for emphasis). This demonstration is shown on the front of the tank for easier viewing, obviously this would be placed on the back of an aquarium.
You may also place your power head/ internal filter on its side for an easier tubing application.
The picture can be enlarged by clicking on it too!

The advantage of this set up is it allows a small (or larger aquarium) that may only have a HOB filter such as a Whisper to also have a UV Sterilizer PLUS more filtration and filter redundancy.
In all bluntness this type of set up is not all that expensive when you consider the costs of fish and medications or simply piece of mind that a UV Sterilizer can provide in improving water quality (such as Redox) and lower water borne disease incidence. This is not to say that a UV Sterilizer will solve all your problems, but they are often a major piece of the good water parameter puzzle and in my experience should be included in most aquarium set ups if at all possible. Please see this article for more why: UV Sterilization

Here is a picture of an inexpensive set up that starts at $83.99 and is ready to go for an aquarium as small as a 10 gallon aquarium (there are set ups such as the 9 watt that would easily work for a 100 gallon aquarium)
Please follow this link for more information about these kits: Terminator UV Sterilizers/ Filter Kits
Please click pictures to enlarge

INTERNAL UV STERILIZERS

With the above kit or similar in mind, please be careful of the relatively new Internal UV Sterilizers sold under a couple of brand names (same design) BUT rejected by several wholesalers and retailers due to the fact that they tend to leak internally damaging, destroying the electrical components of the Unit often resulting in complete failure in under a year. I personally rejected these units after Kokaho Aquarium and other users of these Internal UV Sterilizers found total failure of most or all of them within a year or often much sooner.
What is even worse is that a manufacturer of the most popular of these internal UVs had someone spam my YouTube video demonstration of how to install a custom UV on an aquarium using Internal Filters and I commented on their clear attempt to push this product that I in good conscience could not recommend (in fact I noted in my comment that it was an awesome idea, which it is, but failed in practicality). They had the audacity to call ME unprofessional implying that I had gone to their Video when in fact that were trying to peddle their product via a comment on my video (or for clarification someone who used one of them). I think I have a right to comment on my own video!!!
They also ended up with name calling when they could not change my mind stating that "I needed help".
Honestly in my opinion this is an act of desperation by a company that may have a good concept, but is failing to sell many due to the fact that many in this industry but for a few less than honest retailers refuse to stock these Internal UV Sterilizers (or "algae killing machines").
What is also sad, is that many have criticized me for some of the unique products I do sell (such as the Wonder Shell, Aquarium Cleaning Machine), yet I only sell/use in my service items that I and others in professionally aquarium maintenance use. In the case of the JBJ and other internal UV Sterilizers I would have loved for these to work, as I think this is a good idea, but I cannot honestly sell something that I know has flaws that will lead to product failure somewhere down the road. Basically I am in a can’t win situation with some people; damned if I recommend or damned if I don’t (as in the case of these junky Internal UV Sterilizers)!

SUMP USE of UV STERILIZERS

A popular use of UV Sterilizers is in the sumps of high flow sump systems of large aquariums (especially marine), unfortunately the majority that I have seen when called out on service calls were installed improperly often resulting in the owner of the system to pronounce the UV Sterilizer a "failure" when in actuality the flow rate was way to fast for the UV Sterilizer wattage installed. As a generalization it is best to have a flow rate of under 20-30 gph per watt for a UV to be effective for bacteria, Redox, algae (slower yet for parasites) This flow rate can vary based on many factors that I will go into here (I recommend reading the link earlier in this article for more on this subject), I will only state that although you do not need to pay a fortune for a UV Sterilizer, most of the units selling for under $50 are junk and even a few name brands selling for over $100 are not delivering what you pay for.

UV Sterilizer Diverter Valves are the answer to most high flow pump problems; For use with ponds, sumps, or any high flow water application where the flow rate exceeds the recommended GPH per watt.
See this site for more: UV Sterilizer Diverter Valves

Bio Cube, UV Sterilizers

2008-09-16T11:33:00.000-07:00

UV Sterilizers and Bio Cube Aquariums or Internal Wet/Dry Bio Filters

The Bio Cube Aquarium is a popular style of aquarium nowadays, although I have to laugh a little here as these are highly touted as a new way to keep small marine reef aquariums or planted freshwater aquariums while in reality the basic built- wet/dry filter system is nothing new to the hobby and in fact there is a new Internal Wet/Dry Bio Filter (made by the same manufacturer in China) that is less than half the cost of many Bio Cube Aquariums WITH the cost of an aquarium.
The ReSun BF 100 and 200 are the exact same filter/pump and can be used in (for example) a 40 gallon aquarium to turn it into a Bio Cube style aquarium (the addition of good lighting such as CFL/SHO, T2, or VHO is also necessary for a "higher end" or advanced aquarium). With a ReSun BF200 and your own aquarium set up the cost is often lower than many of the larger bio cube aquariums.

Anyway, the other point of this article/post is to point out that whether you use a Bio Cube Aquarium or a ReSun BF Wet/Dry Bio Filter, both of these filters systems lend themselves nicely (& easily) to a simple UC Sterilizer set up unlike say a HOB ("Hang on the back", Aquarium Power Filter) filter set up..
This is an advantage of a Bio Cube/BF 100 or 200 is that you can add a UV Sterilizer to not only lower the incidence of diseases, but just as importantly (or maybe more importantly) improve Aquarium Redox and improve fish disease resistance.

This is easily achieved by simply purchasing additional 1/2 to 5/8 inch ID tubing and running this tubing out of the aquarium to a UV Sterilizer (a 5 watt Terminator is pictured in the diagrams) and then inserting the return tubing back into the return slot on your BF 100/200 or Bio Cube Aquarium.

Please click on pictures below for a better view
This picture shows a 5 Watt Terminator UV Sterilizer connected to a 14 gallon Bio Cube Aquarium.
You can see how the tubing simply comes and out of the aquarium slots in the back of the aquarium (the slots can also be enlarged with a keyhole saw) and that the UV Sterilizer hangs easily on the back. My suggestion for most Bio Cube aquariums is a 5, 7, or 9 Watt UV Sterilizer.

This picture shows the simple mounting of a ReSun BF 200 with a Terminator 5 Watt UV Sterilizer. As with the Bio Cube application the way you add tubing is quite straight forward and as well the 5, 7, and 9 Watt UVs would also be my suggestion.

Pond UV Tips

2008-06-15T14:00:00.000-07:00

Pond UV Clarifier Tips

* UV Clarifier/ Filter placement
A UV Sterilizer/Clarifier works best when the UV is place AFTER the filter. I know this contradicts some information I have read and this information is not necessarily wrong either, so let me explain further; By placing your Clarifier after the filter, you will remove debris that will otherwise make penetration of UVC light difficult, further more in my experience this will greatly reduce the amount of sludge buildup inside your Sterilizer/Clarifier, I will also note that the gimmicky wipers do not help much with problem. The reason some pond keepers recommend placing the filter after the UV Sterilizer is to trap algae that often clumps after passing through your clarifier, so as I noted this suggestion is not without merit. However in practical experience (along with knowledge of how uvc works), I have found that in an either or situation, the first suggestion of placing the filter first works best, this said, a pond keeper can always employ both methods for even better results, although even here I find this to make no discernable difference as to clarity, only to the amount of detritus/mulm buildup in the pond (of which controlling this via whatever means possible is certainly useful to good pond hygiene, although pond vacuums can be a useful tool here as well).

*Filters
This really goes without saying, but I will state the obvious (at least in my opinion, so please do not be insulted by my stating this point this way), USE ONE OR MORE pond filters.
Often I have had persons tell me that they bought a UV Clarifier only to realize that the new pond keeper figured the UV Sterilizer would take care of the Green Pond all by itself, which it will not. I strongly suggest a Veggie Filter in addition to a more traditional Pond Filter such as the Clear Stream Pressurized Filter, for further information about this subject, please read this article: “Aquarium and Pond Answers; Veggie Filters”.

Flow Rate
Maintain a proper flow rate to your UV Clarifier/Sterilizer either by using a slower pump or splitting the flow from your high GPH pump so as to send water to your UV at a slower rate. This is a common problem in poor UV Sterilizer installation, but easy to solve. This flow rate should be around 20-40 gph per watt, please see my Full UV Sterilization article for more about this subject: “UV Sterilization; how it works”

Please click on the picture above for a larger view at my full pond information article about how to properly connect a UV Sterilizer so as to achieve the correct flow rate

Do not waste time or money on gimmicks
I will not waste space addressing this other than stating gimmicks such as wipers or “twists” do little to improve UV Sterilization, other than lightening up your wallet.
Please read this Aquarium/Pond UV Blog Post for more about this subject: “UV Sterilizer Truths”

Maintenance
Clean your UV Sterilizer unit with each UV bulb change, which for a pond should be every season or every six months in warmer climates such as Southern California, Florida, Texas, etc. Make sure models with a quartz sleeve get the quartz sleeve cleaned as well, especially of hard water deposits (which wipers do little for).
For low price, first quality UV replacement bulbs follow either of these links (depending on your bulb type):
Standard UV Replacment Bulbs For T-5 & T-8 UV Replacement bulbs, 8 thru 50 watt; to fit Laguna, Emperor, Aqua, Aquanetics, Custom 15, Fishmate Compact, Hawaiian Marine Angstrom 2537® UV, Savio, Current USA Gamma and more.

Compact UV Replacement bulbs For (PLS, PLL, with G11 & G23 bases to fit 95% of UV Clarifiers/Sterilizers calling for this type of UVC bulb, please click the picture on the left.

Fish Immune and UV Sterilizers

2008-01-21T18:59:00.000-08:00

Fish Immune System and UV Sterilization

I have seen many comments posted in various places on the internet claiming that running a UV Sterilizer 24/7 will weaken the immune system in fish in part by creating a sterile environment.
I have tried to find more information as to how this myth got its start and the best I can come up with is that many are equating UVC radiation (emitted in UV Sterilizers) to Ozone produced by Ozone Generators

First even though I have not found an Ozone Generator as effective a most UV Sterilizers, even here properly used the Ozone is not added to the aquarium.
However more importantly is that a UV Sterilizer keeps ALL UVC radiation inside the unit and this reaction actually breaks apart free radicals and other oxidizers such as Ozone (similar to the reaction of Ozone and UV light energy in the upper atmosphere of Earth).

What is most important to note is that a properly installed UV Sterilizer will IMPROVE a fish’ immune system by creating a better Reducing Redox environment in the aquarium after water has passed through the sterilizer (providing it is a reasonably good unit such as the Custom I use or the Terminator amongst many other good units as well).
Here is a quote from "Aquarium Redox Potential":
"A proper Redox Potential improves the health of humans AND fish. A Redox Potential in the -200-400 mV range in human studies has been shown to have the same affect as anti-oxidant preparations such Vitamin C (and many others). In medical studies the enhanced oxidizing environment can facilitate the binding of pathogens or antigens to effector cells (a type of lymphocyte that are actively engaged in secreting antibodies) leading to a hyper-responsive innate immune system. Previous work has shown that an oxidizing environment leads to enhanced release of super-oxide and nitric oxide, activation and translocation of nuclear transcription factor and enhanced production of cytokines (proteins and peptides that are signaling compounds produced by animal cells to communicate with one another). The creation of a markedly reduced environment by addition of antioxidants blunts all of the above primary responses of the innate immune system."

In studies using human blood therapy, the use of UVC to irradiate blood, these are just a few of the findings:
*Improved circulation and oxygenation of tissues
*Anti-inflammatory effects
*Stimulation of the Immune System
*Increased Tolerance of the body to Chemotherapy and Radiation
*Cardiovascular protection
*Powerful Anit-Infection Properties
See this article for more: Oxygen Healing Therapies with UVC

It should also be noted that a UV Sterilizer cannot create a sterile environment as it cannot reach all aspects of the aquarium such as gravel, filter media, and the fish internally!

It is unfortunate that these false statements are still widely circulated, I recommend reading this article about UV Sterilization for more:
Ultraviolet Sterilization in Aquariums and Ponds

Or this article about Aquarium Redox:
Aquarium Redox Potential

Or even this article about Aquarium Calcium, GH, KH, pH (as this is also an important aspect as well to a healthy fish immune system):
CALCIUM, ELECTROLYTES, AND MAGNESIUM IN AQUARIUMS;

UV lamps

2007-12-24T09:59:00.000-08:00

UV (UVC) lamps (bubs) used in Aquariums and Ponds and how they work.

This post is primarily dealing with UV bulbs (or lamps which is a more correct term) emitting UVC radiation used in the Aquarium/Pond Industry, although I will discuss other UV bulb types as well since these may someday show up in the Aquatics Industry which tends to lag behind the mainstream technical, filtration, and other innovations in many ways such as in Aquarium Lighting (the SHO and T2 lights are good examples of where the Aquarium Industry has yet to embrace these high performers in overhead aquarium lights).

There are two common UVC emitting lamps types currently employed: the low pressure and the medium pressure mercury lamp.

The low pressure lamp emits its radiant energy between 250-260 NM which is where UV Sterilization is most effective with a UVC efficiency of about 38%.

The medium pressure lamp emits its radiant energy between 250 and 350 with many energy spikes in between (most notably around 320 which is more in the UVB range) with a UVC efficiency around 7%.

Please click diagram to enlarge

The low pressure lamp is clearly the better choice based on this information, however the low pressure lamp does have one flaw which the medium pressure lamp does not suffer from and that is the low pressure lamp is affected by water (or air) temperatures and operates best between 20 C (68 F) and 40 C (104 F). Generally this is not a major concern considering most aquarists operate their aquariums in well within this range. With ponds, this is still not a major concern in that most problems, including algae occur in warmer months. This problem can be also addressed with in-line heaters to pre-warm the water. Many UV Sterilizers come with quartz sleeves which form an air pocket between the lamps and water that in theory increases operating temperatures; HOWEVER my own tests have shown this improvement to be nominal at best especially when compared to a well designed direct contact UV Sterilizer. In a test with a custom 15 Watt UV Sterilizer and a 13 Watt Quartz sleeve UV Sterilizer (a well designed one at that), the increase in temperate was only 2 degrees F (I have observed up to 5 degrees depending on the units compared). This test started at 68 F and was conducted over 15 minutes, then water was removed from the units and the temperature measured. Unfortunately the quartz sleeve is accepted as a standard that sounds great in theory, but in practicality is not a true improvement in most applications (I would recommend them in some applications such as Lobster tanks, but even here a pre-heater would also be recommended).

Please see this article for much more about UV Sterilization: ULTRAVIOLET STERILIZATION (How UV sterilization works) . This article explains the benefits and myths about aquarium and pond uv sterilization

Now a potential improvement is the Amalgam High Output low pressure lamp. These lamps operate in a wider temperature range than standard low pressure lamps. These lamps are not without their problems too; even though not affected by water temperature fluctuations, these lamps can take 800 seconds to get to full power, and the warm up time is temperature dependant. The lamp life is often below the expected hours due to failure caused by the filaments becoming brittle and deposits of mercury oxide causing the ends to become black. This leads to poor heat dissipation and is the most probable failure mode. These lamps and the UV Sterilizers that contain them are also very expensive as well.

Another aspect of UV lamps that should be noted is how they function or start. Most UV lamps commonly used are Hot Cathode UV lamps. The Hot Cathode Germicidal UV Lamps are similar in their operation to the standard fluorescent lamps. The Hot Cathode lamp operates from a ballast or transformer and requires a device such as the glow switch starter to preheat the electrodes in order to start the lamp. The electrodes, located at the ends of the lamp, are tungsten filaments coated with emission material and, under normal operation, govern the life of the lamp. In view of the fact that the life of the electrodes is shortened by frequent starts, the lamp life is rated according to the number of times the lamp is started. Operation at low temperatures may result in excessive lamp blackening and rapid depreciation in ultraviolet output.

References:
http://americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html
http://www.americanairandwater.com/lamps.htm

Pond UV truths

2007-12-11T11:00:00.000-08:00

Pond UV Sterilizers vs. Aquarium UV Sterilizers; is there a difference?

The answer is yes and no.
This said I have had persons over the years tell me that a store (or web site) stated that a UV sterilizer that is made for a pond is even better for an aquarium; the truth is this is generally false.

Here is what one might look for in a pond UV Sterilizer:

*Heavy duty construction so as to withstand the sun light and other elements. However any UV that is even indirectly protected form the elements (sun light, heavy rain or snow) will work fine for a pond.

*Pre filtration of debris; this is probably the most important aspect of a pond UV Sterilizer in that most ponds have higher amounts of organics in the water as well as general debris that will both clog a UV Sterilize and slow block UV effectiveness.
However even most of the UV Sterilizers specifically designed for ponds have no more ability to carry out this function than other UV Sterilizers. This function must be added by way of a pre-filter or standard pond filter by which the water passes through before the UV Sterilizer.

It should be noted that some pond UV Sterilizers come bulb “wipers”, but these gimmicks to not keep the quartz sleeve much cleaner than simply one without (they fail to remove hard water deposits well.
Some claim that a quartz sleeve is necessary for pond uv sterilizers, this is only true for very cold ponds in which algae is not generally a problem anyway (this is not to say a Quartz sleeve does is bad either as I have used many such as the Terminator that have quartz sleeves with good results). In truth units with direct contact of water (such as my Custom 15 Watt UV Sterilizer or some Aquanetics models) actually clear many ponds better in the summer. I had a recent customer go through two Tetra UV Sterilizers until trying out mine and the custom UV did a much better job (he lives in the warm summer climate of the Central Valley of California)

Lets now look at what is really needed for both aquariums AND ponds for a UV to be effective:

*For algae control an average UV Sterilizer (some need slower flow rates due to poor design) needs a flow rate of 40 gph PER watt
* For bacterial control an average UV Sterilizer (some need slower flow rates due to poor design) needs a flow rate of 20-25 gph PER watt
* For Redox control an average UV Sterilizer (some need slower flow rates due to poor design) needs a flow rate of 25-30 gph PER watt
* For parasite control an average UV Sterilizer (some need slower flow rates due to poor design) needs a flow rate of 10-15 gph PER watt (generally almost ALL UV Sterilizers work to control parasites more by indirect means such as improved water conditions such as Redox and lower suspended bacterial counts).

Now lets look at the claims of the Tetra Pond UV Sterilizer:
9 Watt UV
• Maximum water flow:
900 gallons per hour
• Maximum pond size:
1800 gallons

5 Watt UV
• Maximum water flow:
330 gallons per hour
• Maximum pond size:
660 gallons

How do they get a jump of almost triple flow for a less than double wattage increase?
Second the flow rate claims for both are outrageous for both algae or bacterial control. 900 gph calculates out to 100 gph per watt which is ridiculous, so some who purchases this for an aquarium thinking this will due a better job due to high flow rate claims is sadly mistaken.

The bottom line is do not buy a UV Sterilizer such as the one listed above for your aquarium or pond under the mistaken belief that it can handle more since it is called a pond UV. This neither true for aquariums nor ponds.
This is also not to say that the above pond UV Sterilizer does not work, however it should not be purchased based on its claim of flow or simply because it is a "Pond" UV Sterilizer as that makes little difference in real world application.

For about this subject please read this article about UV Sterilization: Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilization; how it works, truths and myths

UV Sterilizers Truths

2007-09-24T17:59:00.001-07:00

Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilizers Truths:

There are many gimmicks surrounding some UV Sterilizers currently on the market, some based in assumptions that are good, others not so much

I will emphasize as I have in earlier posts as well as my full Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilization Article that flow rate trumps all as to UV Sterilizer effectiveness. This flow should be under 20-25 gph per watt for sterilization and under 40 gph per watt for algae control. The gimmicks come into play with baffles and other ideas to slow the flow rate inside the unit unfortunately these do little to help the flow and can even hinder UV light exposure while in the unit (this is based on my experience and measured flow results!).

The Coralife Turbo Twist is a good unit, however the purchase of this unit over another unit based on this configuration is a waste of the extra cost in my experience. I have achieved as good a results and better with also well made Via Aqua Terminator UV Sterilizers or the longer exposure time of the TMC Pond Advantage UV Sterilizers and Custom UV Sterilizers.

Another over rated UV part is the quartz sleeve (although not useless). Even though I use and recommend Via Aqua Terminator UV Sterilizers which have these, I have found little difference in units with and without them (the exception being cold water applications such as Trout). The quartz sleeve also needs to be cleaned upon changing the bulbs every six months to a year and sometimes more often.

The new Wiper models that I have seen also do a poor job of removing calcium and other buildup and again are not worth the extra $. If you have a quartz sleeve make sure and clean it with acetone when you change your bulb to truly have a clean quartz sleeve (unlike wipers which are one of the biggest gimmicks to hit UV Sterilization in recent years IMO). The rubber gasket that is pulled across the quartz sleeve simply does not remove all the deposits and sometimes leave its own “trail of debris”. These also are easily torn or broken with regular use.
Bottom line, DO NOT spend the extra money!

Other poor UV attributes are the low quality electronic ballasts that many low end companies now use that are often only good for 6 months (such as Garden Treasures).

One other UV gimmick is the UV Sterilizers that come built into many pond filters including a brand I highly recommend which is the Clear Stream Pond Filter. However I personally only recommend the units that come without the UV Sterilizers (unlike a few less honest pond supply retailers that sell these.). The problem is that most come with UVs ranging from 5 to 18 watts, the 9 watt is being the most common, so when you install this filter to a water pump that moves 2000 gph through a 9 watt UV you are effecting a 222 gph per watt rating which is TOTALLY useless.
Please read this article which has a diagram that demonstrates how to correctly connect a UV Sterilizer to your pond filtration system: A Clear Pond, Pond Information and more

Also, although this is not a gimmick rather a scam IMO, and that us the use of proprietary UVC replacement bulbs by some companies to force the UV purchaser to buy replacement bulbs from them at often triple OR MORE the cost of standard UV bulbs. Tetra is one of the biggest offenders here and should be ashamed of themselves!

FINALLY, be aware that many UV Sterilizers sold are made of very cheap material and have extremely low end electronic ballasts that have burned out in as little as 6 months (or even less) as per our own and others in the Aquarium/Pond maintenance business experience.
A few of the brands we have tried, used and REJECTED are; Aqua Medic, Jebo, JBJ and Garden Treasures. Avoid these brands unless you enjoy throwing money away!

For further information about UV Sterilization, please read my full article: Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilization; How UV Sterilizers works and more

New Aquarium UV ideas

2007-07-26T15:06:00.000-07:00

New Aquarium UV ideas:

Many already connect their UV Sterilizer in-line to a canister filter or sump pump, however a power head or internal power filter also makes an excellent power unit; what is needed is the right connection so as to not have kinked flexible tubing and to return water efficiently without mess.

The simplest method is to use an intake adapter that can either be DIY or purchased. From there you run your tubing to your UV Sterilizer, then back to the aquarium, finally returning your water via a return adapter which also can be DIY or purchased.
(Please click picture to the left to enlarge).

Intake Adapter

Return Adapter

This can work with standard UV Sterilizers or with Custom UV Sterilizers (which already come with a different hang on the back adapter).

Good Information

2007-06-26T16:13:00.000-07:00

I am writing this post not to brag, but to show the many doubters who continually listen to the anecdotal advice coming from many forums (Yahoo answers in particular) and elsewhere not only about UV Sterilization, but about aquarium keeping and pond keeping in general. This is an email of a reader who made a long trip down to our warehouse based on reading my articles. He had read many of them (the UV Sterilization article in particular). He then tried the custom UV Sterilizer, Wonder shells (based on my article about Aquarium KH, Calcium, & Electrolytes), and other methods suggested (not all methods results in the need to buy something either, many are DIY).

"Carl,

I wanted to let you know that your uv sterilizers are great! I have used them over the last week or so and my aquariums have never looked better. Your website speaks the truth. I have spent a lot of money on other filter devices, particularly very expensive protein skimmers, that do not do the same job as a simple uv sterilizer. I like your device more than my Coralife UV as yours has more secure connections and it has a nice flow.

My reef tank now has pristine, clear water. The inhabitants are doing well.

My discus tank has shown a dramatic improvement. Previously, the water was always slightly cloudy, even with multiple filters and daily water changes. Now, it is much cleaner. My discus are very large and although beautiful, they are sloppy eaters that produce a lot of waste. It makes no sense to keep a bacterial bloom in the water column, as you have pointed out! The color of the discus has improved. Previously, several of them would hang out near the back and they were very shy to eat. Now, with your UV unit, they all come out to the front of the tank and beg me for food. They have never acted that way in the past. They also appeared to have cleared small spots on them that I believe may have been a low grade hexamita infestation.

My planted tank is also improved with high intensity lighting and less algae growth noted. I had occasionally lost fish in this tank when newly added from the store and I believe that the odds of success have been greatly improved.

I wish you well and I hope that others read up on your site. I have been keeping fish for over thirty years and you have taught me a lot. I am reading about tropical fish constantly and it is very seldom that something new comes along. I give you a lot of credit. It is interesting to go back to some of the standard authors and texts in the hobby and compare your notes. I think that you have something to teach them.

I also appreciate your meeting with me to show me your products first hand. Please feel free to stay in touch with me. If you are ever in Roseburg, I would love to show you some very fine aquariums. Keep in the hobby so that you can keep up your skills.

Your friend,
Howard"

Aquarium UV Sterilizers; Misinformation

2007-04-24T13:37:00.000-07:00

I continue to follow the threads on forums, aquarium articles, and blogs about UV Sterilization. It still amazes me much misinformation spread about this, some masked in science. As I have stated many times before, a UV Sterilizer is not essential for any aquarium, however even for goldfish I have had maintained tanks with as many variables (similarities) in place as possible and noted the differences and this includes thriving reef tanks.
What I also find interesting is that many of these same persons who trash them will then state a protein skimmer as essential. I have maintained tanks with and without Skimmers (again every other possible variable the same or as close as possible), and noted the changes in measurable parameters and found that yes they are useful, however often not by much and that Mud Filters, DIY DSB filters or similar can often replace them (as well as UV Sterilizers and good over head lighting such as MH).

Back to the subject at hand, here is a thread I will comment on. In this thread one person who offered proof (albeit not of the perfect scientific nature, but as good as it can often be within this hobby) was attacked dog pile style without other backing up their statements other than criticizing his methods:

Arthur #1:
“If you read some scientific documents about UV sterilization of water you will know they talk usually about a standard long, 40W mercury UV tube in a 3" diameter lamp and water passing at the speed about 500 gph or less. This kind of setup delivers dosage of about 18,000 mW-sec/cm2. In order to increase this dosage you need to lower the water flow. For example, 250 gph
flow will in above mentioned lamp would be exposed to the almost double dosage of 34,000 mW-sec/cm2. This dosage is enough to kill bacteria, yeast, some mold spores, viruses and microalgae. And some aquarium grade lamps achive this effect with unicellular algea. To kill protozoa (like a well known from school "Paramecium" or our ich-causing "Cryptocaryon irritans")
you would have to increase the dosage to the range of 200,000 mW-sec/cm2 !!!!! This would mean that if you had 3" diameter lab-grade UV lamp with a 40W mercury tube you could give it maximum water flow of 40 gph... How about that!”

MY COMMENT:

First, most studies I have read show under 10,000 mW per se/cm2 for bacteria (Reference: UV Disinfection ). Second, I have read articles that have shown 30,000 + mW-sec/cm2 with 90 watt bulbs at a rate of 200 + gallons per MINUTE (which even I find hard to believe; Reference; Triangular Wave), my point often it depends on whose data you look at. Third, there is more to treatment of Cryptocaryon than just out right sterilization (I would not want it that high in my reef tanks!!!), there is also the Redox potential which Sterilizers improve and also general over all water quality that is aided by the addirion of an Ultraviolet Sterilizer.
Finally each unit is different and there are many variables from age of the bulb (even a 3 month old bulb has lost 25%), to temperature, design of the unit, pre filtration (a micron pre filter vastly improves sterilization), and to flow rate which I have found to be best at 20 gph (or less for most good units in aquarium applications).

Arthur #2 (edited):
I started keeping marine fish in 1975. I first added a UV sterilizer to my tank about 1977 or '78. It was an 8 watt unit. In the early '90s, I added another. In 2005, I went back to an 8 watt unit.

Without a hospital tank, adding a new fish was always hazardous. Back when I had no UV on the tank, once one of the fish started showing signs, the life expectancy of that fish was usually less than 3 days; they could not take the combined stress of the parasites and the copper treatment. Other fish in the tank would invariably show signs of infestation later, but would usually make it through. Once the first sterilizer was added, the rate at which the disease spread decreased; my theory is that some of the parasites were being killed in their free-swimming stage. After that, the first fish to show signs usually survived, and some of the other fish would never show any signs at all. Once I added the second sterilizer, I never lost a fish to ich, though I did get the occasional infestation. In short, there was a direct relationship to the number of watts of UV and the intensity and rate of spread of the disease.
Since I was not religious in changing the bulbs (and the bulbs get less effective with time), I was also in a position to notice that an outbreak was worse when the sterilizer bulb was pretty old. Again, this didn't happen once I had two units running.

MY COMMENT:

This person most likely had decent units with low flow rates, pre filtration, and useful discernment.
Without elaborating too much (my expanded articles have much about this), as stated earlier there are other aspects of UV Sterilizers such Redox Potential, this is not a hard test to perform; simply test the Redox without a UV and then run one for a week and test again, easy! So many person who trash persons like this have not considered all the variables if they have failed, myself I have seen UV Sterilizers not do a damn thing. These were often 8 watt Units running off a sump with a flow rate of 800 gph, a calcified quartz sleeve and poor pre filtration. This is not to say a 8 watt unit (or less) cannot work, just not under those conditions (and in the case a brand I will not mention, a poor mixing chamber design as well). The 15 Watt Custom UV Sterilizer I made has performed well in most every application I have placed it in (The Terminator Compact UV Sterilizers do well too, one of the best compact UVs I have used along with the ReSun and Coralife).

What a UV Sterilizer is, is a tool for good aquarium husbandry along with water changes, filtration, Protein Skimmers and more. In many of my side by side applications with and without, the UV was just one more piece of the puzzle to improved water quality in let’s face it, an artificial environment (unless we want to kid ourselves). I can think of one experiment in particular with several goldfish tanks at a large service customer of mine. All these tanks in particular had canister filters, cleaning and the same feeding schedule and bio load; the only difference was UV Sterilizers. The difference in amount of diseased goldfish, growth and color was very noticeable (the vice president did not no we were performing this experiment and even commented about why some tanks did better than others, after which she had us install UV Sterilizers on all).

Please read my article about UV Sterilization for more: ULTRAVIOLET STERIZATION (How it Works)

UV Sterilization Article:

2007-03-01T12:55:00.000-08:00

For an article with even more information about UV Sterilization, please read this article:

ULTRAVIOLET STERILIZATION (How UV sterilization works)
This article explains the benefits and myths about aquarium and pond uv sterilization;
• UV Sterilization Basics
• What is a quality UV Sterilization Unit
• What size UVC Sterilizer is best
• Facts (and falsehoods) about UVC sterilization
• In Depth information about UVC and how it works
• UV Bulb Maintenance
• UVC Penetration
• Rebuttal to a false article about UV Sterilizers in aquariums.

For more information about pond applications (including a diagram for reducing flow), please see the UV Sterilizer section in this article: A Clear Pond; Pond Information

2006-03-25T09:53:00.000-08:00

A QUALITY UV

Proper UV sterilization starts with the proper UV, contact time, water turbidity, water temperature, bio load, and more. Proper filtration of the water before entering the UV sterilizer helps with turbidity, many UV’s now available do not have proper contact time or advertise too high a flow rate. I would recommend 20-45 gph per watt of UVC. If your pump rate is too high (after subtracting head pressure), I would add a diverter to your return line or a seperate pump for your UV.
I have produced a 15 watt UV that is extremely effective when installed properly.
Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilizers Quality UV Sterilizers

Be careful of some of the cheap uv sterilizers currently flooding the market such as the Aqua Medic, our service experience is poor with these units (leakage, poor sterilization patterns). If you obtain one of these units, you cannot make a fair assesment of what UV Sterilization can really do.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT HOW UVC STERILIZATION WORKS, READ OUR EXPANDED POST BELOW

2005-11-26T10:03:00.000-08:00

WHY SHOULD YOU USE AN ULTRA-VIOLET STERILIZER? (Educational information about how UV sterilization works)

BASICS (from the article ULTRAVIOLET STERILIZATION (How UV sterilization works)):

Ultra violet sterilization is one of the most effective means of disease prevention in aquariums and ponds and for general water quality control in aquariums and ponds (for reasons other than sterilization too!). UV Sterilization is also a useful tool for Pond algae control as well. There is a lot of new evidence as to the benefits of UV sterilization for ALL fish (and other aquarium inhabitants), and many myths have been dispelled such as “UV Sterilizers destroying beneficial nitrifying bacteria”, so please read on.

Ultra Violet Sterilizers (such as the custom 15 Watt UV) are also useful in Reef aquaria, especially new ones where the chance of disease introduction is high and the UVs help in keeping a balanced Redox Potential is useful. As the reef aquaria ages the sterilizer can be placed on a timer or turned on and off as needed.

The Redox Potential in aquariums is an often overlooked aspect of both freshwater and saltwater aquarists. The Redox Potential is basically the oxidation and reduction properties of water. This is VERY important for proper breakdown of organic waste!, especially in aquariums where the fish/invertebrates come from waters of low turbidity (African Cichlids) or tend to produce a lot of waste (Goldfish). Most experts agree that the proper Redox Potential should be -300-390 mV (less or more is not good, which is why a proper UV is excellent for this, as this is the range they tend to keep it at).

The key to success is water flow, water temperature and cleanliness of the bulb or quartz sleeve. It is important to have a flow rate that will turn over the pond or aquarium at least once or 1 ½ times per hour for disease prevention or every three hours for green algae control.
Example: 100 gph will service a 100 gallon pond well. The reason I mentioned such seemingly slow rates is too high a rate will not usually allow for adequate contact time with uvc radiation. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations for flow rate [our 15 watt model is 200-350 gph]. You also need to maintain a flow rate thru the UV of 20 gph per watt for germicidal or 40 gph per watt for green water control.
The other key is temperature. 60 to 85 degrees [F] has worked best for me.

Quartz sleeves help keep up a higher temperature (around 5 F in my tests) but don’t allow for as good of contact with the water and are difficult to keep clean, so in my opinion the benefits are a wash. Which brings me to key # 3, keeping the bulb or quartz sleeve clean? First, you want to change the bulb every 6 months for disease prevention or once every year at the beginning of the growing season for green algae prevention. You want to clean the quartz sleeve at this time too, which is one reason for a simple model without a quartz sleeve, use just throw away the dirty bulb. [Although the temperature aspects of a quartz sleeve are worthy of note].

Back to temperature; if your water is very cold (such as a pond or even well water treatment system), I would suggest pre-heating your water before it passes through your UV Sterilizer unit, this is more effective than a quartz sleeve.

Other factors of note are water turbidity (dissolved waste particulates in the water column, poor circulation (a poor flow pattern that that has the water pickup and return too close where too much water goes unfiltered). If these factors exist you will need a larger UV Sterilizer for an effective pathogen kill.

One argument against UV Sterilizers in ponds is that they are not natural, but for the clarity most persons want out of their pond, this is not possible without either UV sterilization or a flow thru stream (although many persons with well planted, well shaded ponds do well with clarity).
Many articles I have read state that a UV is not that beneficial to an established aquarium as a healthy aquarium depends on beneficial bacteria typically growing on media in your filter which neutralize ammonia. Unfortunately the problem with this statement is beneficial bacteria belongs in the filter, not in the open water. Also this is great for advanced aquarists who are not adding fish and have a healthy Redox Potential, but not in the real world of average and above average aquarists that I have dealt with in the 100s of aquariums I have serviced.

IN DEPTH INFORMATION ABOUT UVC:

All gases, liquids, and solids are made up of elements. The fundamental building blocks of elements are atoms, which in turn are made of electrons, neutrons and protons..., all held together by electronic attraction. This is referred to as polarity, the principle that positive and negative poles attract and remain bound together based upon the strength of that attraction.

Elements combine to form gases, liquids or solids. For example, water is made of two molecules of hydrogen and one molecule of oxygen. Carbon dioxide is one molecule of carbon and two molecules of oxygen. These and all other combinations of elements are bound together by the force of attraction or polarity at the level of the atoms. Organic compounds. The compounds of our focus are those structures that are organic in nature. Primarily it is the organic molecules that are the basis of indoor contamination. We need to understand these compounds so we know how to clean and purify the home. Organic compounds are carbon based. Life is determined by carbon based DNA and amino acid chains.
A number of useful organic compounds are made up of carbon, nitrogen, hydrogen, oxygen and traces of other elements. The most recognizable organic compound is based upon the carbon and hydrogen combination, or hydrocarbons. Plastics, petroleum products and gasoline are hydrocarbons. Hydrocarbon Organic compounds tend to break down or decay faster than non-organic. The decaying process means hydrogen and carbon molecules separate. For example, if the plastic (organic) in milk bottle is left in the sun for a couple of years, much of it will decay. Skin, hair, tissue (all organic) decays more rapidly. This also shows the effectiveness in UV Sterilization in removing oil based pollutants from an aquarium

With the understanding that carbon is the building block of life (and more), we now need to look at the forces that will break down organic and carbon based contaminate molecules. In short, a photochemical process, initiated by short-wave ultraviolet can do this. Short-Wave Ultraviolet We all accept but don’t understand the damaging effects of x-ray and gamma ray radiation. Why isn’t visible light as destructive on human cells or bacteria as x-ray and short wave UV have been shown to be? X-ray, gamma, ultraviolet, infrared and visible light energy all fit in a category called "electromagnetic" energy. They all have the same characteristic "lazy S" energy wave, that travel at the speed of light. The light ray energy is called photons that oscillate, resulting in wave frequency. The difference in each type of wave energy is the wavelength, the distance across this wave. By definition, the shorter the distance across the wave, the more powerful the wave will be. The difference in the wavelength determines how the wave affects its surroundings. It is this wavelength difference that allows short-wave x-ray to pass through walls, while longer-wave visible light cannot pass though the same material; short-wave ultraviolet and x-ray can destroy DNA in living microorganisms and breakdown organic material while visible light will not.

Nanometers: Measuring Light Energy All light energy is measured on a "nanometer" (nm) scale. Nanometer means one-billionth of a meter. The lower end of the scale has the shortest wavelength, and the upper the longest. Cosmic, gamma, x-rays and "C" band UV are all classified short-wave energy. Visible light is at middle ground, at 400-700 NM on the scale. Infrared light is in the upper end of the spectrum, running from about 800 to 1400 NM, and radio waves are longer yet in the 1400 to 2200 NM range. Spectrograph: Charting Light Energy in Nanometers.
Ultraviolet light is toward the low end of this scale, from about 100 to 400 NM, with three categories, "A," "B" and "C." UV is beyond the range of visible light and cannot be seen. We only see evidence of its presence. Short-wave UV, called "C" band (100 – 280 NM) is known as UVC. Since most C band radiation is screened from the sun before reaching the earth by the production of ozone in the upper atmosphere, useful UVC is entirely manmade, found in today’s low-pressure UVC lamps.
The most effective sterilizing range for UV is within the C bandwidth. This range is called the germicidal bandwidth. The ideal germicidal curve is the 240 NM to 280 NM, with the most effective at 265 NM. With exposure, UVC has properties that alter the cells of living tissue, particularly microbes. UVC radiation triggers the formation of peptide bonds between certain amino acids in the microbe’s DNA molecules. This renders bacteria, viruses and molds harmless by robbing them of the ability to reproduce. If the germ cells are exposed for longer periods, they start breaking down to the molecular level.

UVC Germicidal Effectiveness Wave length; NM Relative germicidal effectiveness
240 .62
245 .72
250 .90
255 1.03
260 1.12
265 1.15
270 1.08
257 .98
280 .87
285 .73
290 .60

The optimal wavelength for germicidal effectiveness is shown to be 265 NM

FOR MY FULL ARTICLE ABOUT UV STERILIZATION, please visit this article:
WHAT IS UVC; The benefits and myths about aquarium and pond uv sterililization
• UV Sterilization Basics
• What is a quality UV Sterilization Unit
• What size UVC Sterilizer is best
• Facts (and falsehoods) about UVC sterilization
• In Depth information about UVC and how it works
• UVC Penetration
• Rebuttal to a false article about UV Sterilizers in aquariums.

OTHER INTERESTING LINKS

American Aquarium UV -Quality uv sterilizers including our own custom uv sterilizer and Via Aqua Terminator UV Sterilizers

The importance of aquarium water qualityBasic information about freshwater or marine water quality maintenance

PetSquare

Badman’s Tropical Fish To explore the fascinating world of Tropical Fish

Bed and breakfast lodgings in the scottish highlands - a directory of bed and breakfast accommodation in the scottish highlands with valuable added information filled sections

Garden Decor
We carry a large selection of unique and exquisite garden decor at discount and wholesale prices. You'll find water fountains, garden sculptures, garden furniture, birdhouses, bird feeders, plant stands, wind chimes and a host of garden accents.

#1 Free Link Exchange Directory On The Web - Link Market
Have you ever tried to exchange links, swap links, or trade links? Was it hard? Use link market instead; - it is easy to use, free and very smart. It will save you hours of work.

Goldfish Food Sanyu Vital is a complete diet to provide all necessary nutrition for goldfish and koi. This food is formulated to meet the diet requirement for goldfish and koi.

BASIC AQUARIUM PRINCIPLES Basic beginner principles for owning an aquarium

Home 'n Gifts - Home Decor And Gifts
Home 'n gifts is a one-stop shop for all your household and gift giving needs. They carry a large selection of housewares, giftwares, home furnishings, home decor, collectibles, garden, jewelry, toys and tools.

Clear Stream Pond filter -Information about Pressurized pond filters

Via Aqua Via Aqua aquarium pumps, filters, uv sterilizer, sponge filter, fish food , ick treatment, Fish food, Clear Stream Pond Filter, o rings for uv, and more. (Via Aqua 1300 only $16.99)

Salt Water Aquaria
Setting up your own sea water aquaria. As easy as a freshwater tank, we show you how. Learn basics about marines and how the water really gets salty.

AQUARIUM INFORMATION Aquarium (and pond) information, directories, and products

Everything Aquatic-Message Board

Aquarium UV Sterilizer-Yahoo Groups A Group about the benefits of aquarium and pond UV Sterilizers- Message Board

Flash Templates
All you have to do is add your text and pictures to our flash templates and your site is ready.

St. George Utah Real Estate - Homes For Sale St. George Utah
Beautiful homes for sale in southern utah. Market your home online showing as many as 10 high quality photos. Helping buyers and sellers in the southern utah with all their real estate needs.

Allergicpet.com
Allergicpet. Com features free articles, links, and all-natural products that help keep your allergic pet healthy! Great holistic information for non-allergic pets too.

Dolphin Gifts And Collectibles
Our dolphin gifts and collectibles might be exactly what you're looking for if you would like to send a dolphin gift to a loved one or are in search of new dolphin collectibles. These playful creatures will make a great addition to any home decor.

Engagement Rings
The ultimate source of affordable diamond engagement rings from the new york diamond district. Every order is special!

America's Free Classifieds
Advertise your products, business, website and more. Get the results you have been searching for! Come buy and sell with us today! Featured ads, bolding, better placement, upload up to 6 photos. Make your ad stand out from the rest!

AQUARIUM LINKS At MSN Groups- Fisssh

Bird Figurines
Our bird figurines will make handsome additions to your figurine collection. Whether your looking for eagles, hummingbirds, roosters, swans or owls, you'll find them here. we carry a unique and wide selection of discount priced bird figurines.

Bathroomfurniture
Functional and elegant, our bathroom furniture collection offer convenience to store your bath accessories neatly.