Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilizer, Clarifier Reviews; Problems, Bulbs

Electronic UV Sterilizer Ballasts; Lamp Problems

2011-10-17T14:15:00.000-07:00

Updated 10-30-11

While I have considerable experience using ballasts, both Magnetic and Electronic in Ultraviolet Sterilizer as well as aquarium lighting, I am NOT an expert in the exact workings of a ballast, so my explanations are based on my experience in use, research, and consulting with others in the profession.

A Little about Electronic Ballasts:

Electronic ballasts contain semiconductors and other electronic components.
Electronic ballasts are similar to the switching power supplies you find in computers, creating a 'chopped' electrical current with up to 50,000 pulses of electricity supplied to the lamp with the inductor along with the capacitor smoothing out the voltage or current. The incoming 50/60 Hz power (115 or 230 volts) is converted to high-frequency AC. This leads to a constant gas discharge compared to conventional ballasts and prevents cathode flicker.
Unlike a magnetic ballast that uses a starter to provide the correct "surge" voltage to light the lamp/bulb, the electronic ballast utilizes this electronic circuitry to provide the correct "surge" voltage to light the lamp/bulb.

What is noteworthy is that the same Electronic (or Magnetic) Ballast that can fire a 18 watt (I am using a 18 watt as an example) True Hot Cathode UV-C Bulb can fire, a 18 Watt Cold Cathode 18 watt UV bulb, or a 15 watt T5 cool white bulb/lamp.
The difference is that high output lamps such as a Hot Cathode true UV-C Bulb requires this "surge" voltage to remain consistent to light the UV-C Bulb unlike (or even an older, mostly 'expired' UVC bulb). As a lamp ages or in case of cold cathode lamps it requires less of this "surge" voltage to 'light', so a degraded ballast may continue to work for these lamps, but not for a new lamp.

What is also noteworthy is that a ballast that is designed to run on 220V will fire the same lamp as a ballast designed to run on 110V or vice versa. What this means, as an example a 9 Watt UVC Bulb can run on a ballast designed for a 9 Watt lamp/bulb whether it is 110V or 220V.
Here is a very blunt quote from Norman Lamps (an International Supplier of Lamps, Lights, UVC Bulbs, etc.) when the question of separate lamps for 110V or 220V are required:
"Ballast operates the bulb. Therefore, the question relates to the ballast only."

Why Electronic Ballasts

*Electronic ballasts are more efficient than magnetic ballasts in converting input power to the proper lamp power. The operation of UV-lamps at higher frequencies reduce end losses, resulting in an overall lamp-ballast system efficiency increase of 15% to 20%.
*Electronic ballasts are directly interchangeable with magnetic ballasts. They operate with most UV-lamps available and have a much wider range of lamp wattages they can light.
*Electronic ballasts have a further advantage in that they are virtually silent. They do not produce that low frequency "hum" produced by magnetic ballast fixture.
*Electronic Ballasts are more compact and light.

HOWEVER Electronic Ballasts have their failings, this includes poor heat sinks that allow over heating of electronic components over time with the end result being over voltages or under voltages that cannot light new lamps (while often lighting older lamps) or literally 'blowing' lamps due to over voltages. Simply poor quality electronic components is a problem.
Moisture/Humidity is another factor that is damaging to electronic ballasts, again especially poor made electronic ballasts where the components are more susceptible to moisture and humidity.

UV-C Bulb Implications:

A lack of understanding about even the most basic fundamentals of how an electronic ballast works has resulted in many rude phone calls and emails to my colleagues and I.
As I note in this other blog post: UV Sterilizer Problems: Weak or Poor Quality Ballasts

The most common reason for True UV-C Bulb failure is NOT the lamp/bulb, rather it IS the ballast.
As I noted earlier in this post/article, many ballasts are of poor design such as poorly designed heat sinks (often weak solders too), that can cause failure of the electronic circuitry that controls the correct "surge" voltage to light the lamp/bulb.
This results in a new Hot Cathode UV-C bulb not being able to fire while an older Hot Cathode UV-C Bulb OR an easy start cold cathode UV bulb (which is not a full UVC bulb) still often firing.

Moisture or humidity damage can also result in UV-C Lamp failure, often resulting in blown bulbs (which again results in miss-placed blame by many who do not understand how or what the electronic ballast performs.

Moisture/humidity damage is generally the enemy of any UV Sterilizer used near a pond or aquarium, but good care of protecting the unit from any direct or even indirect moisture can go a long ways in ballast lifespan (this includes UV Sterilizers/ Clarifiers designed for outdoor pond use).

Poor component design is much more difficult to prevent damage other than keep your electronic ballast in cool well ventilated location (which is often difficult for ballasts that are built into a UV Sterilizer such as the Pondmaster UV).
However even UV Sterilizers with separate electronic ballasts can have these issues, with the Coralife Turbo Twist suffering from early electronic ballast failure (based on mine and other colleagues experience), with their 18 watt model seeming to bear the brunt of these problems.

Should you ballast fail to light your new UV-C Bulb or "blow" an existing lamp/bulb, replacement is often expensive or even impossible for many UV Sterilizers. However as noted earlier, a ballast is a ballast and you can replace your existing electronic ballast with that of one made for another UV unit of the same or very close wattage. Also if you are of reasonable DIY skills, a magnetic ballast (along with a starter) can often be purchased at local hardware stores and swapped out (this may take a bit of time though).
Sometimes it is more simple & economical (especially when one considers the value of their time) to replace your tired UV Sterilizer with a new model; in this case I strongly urge readers to consider the TMC Line of UV Sterilizers (out of Europe) which are very well built and yet reasonably priced often less than some other so-called name brands and clearly superior in performance and durability over most available UV Sterilizers at any price.

13 Watt UV Bulb; Purchasing Correct Replacement Lamp

2011-07-13T12:34:00.001-07:00

Incorrect 13 Watt UV Bulb Replacement Recommendations

This is a shorter post than many here at UV Sterilizer Reviews, so although the content is short, the reason for writing this review is the copious amounts of incorrect information here on the internet about the correct 13 Watt Compact UV Bulbs to use for many Aquarium and Pond UV-C devices.

Sadly many websites or UV Bulb Guides are incorrectly recommending the GX23 UV Replacement Bulb (such as the Purely PUVX213) for these UV Sterilizers:
*Terminator 13 Watt UV Sterilizer
*AquaTop 13 Watt Internal UV Sterilizer Pump/Filter
*Submariner 13 Watt UV Sterilizer

The GX style UV Bulb has a two clip base (see the picture to the left)
This GX base will not fit these before mentioned UV Sterilizers without modifications that may damage either your UV Lamp or UV Sterilizer (or both)

The correct UV Bulb is the G23/PLS 13 Watt pictured to the left.
This Compact UV Bulb base fits many older UV Sterilizers/Clarifers as well that have newer models that take the GX23 UV Bulb base such as the older Cyprio & Fish Mate UVs

If you need a correct UV Replacement Bulb Guide, I suggest this professionally written website:

Long Life, Easy Start UV Bulbs; are these Low Output Lamps worth purchasing

2011-04-29T07:09:00.001-07:00

Updated 10/17/11

First a little background:

The Best in Optimum standard and mercury vapor low pressure 254nm High Output µW/cm2 UV-C Hot Cathode Quartz Germicidal Lights/Bulbs are similar in their operation to the standard fluorescent lamps. The Hot Cathode lamp operates from a ballast or transformer and requires a device such as the glow bulb starter or electronic ballast to preheat the electrodes in order to start the lamp.

The electrodes, located at the ends of the lamp, are tungsten filaments coated with emission material and, under normal operation, govern the life of the lamp itself (not output).
Operation at low temperatures as found in many ponds in the Winter or early Spring may result in excessive lamp blackening and more rapid depreciation in ultraviolet output. As well, starting of the Hot Cathode lamps at low temperature may require a few minutes.
It is also noteworthy that the tungsten filament used in the High Output UV-C Hot Cathode Quartz Germicidal are more fragile and burn out more quickly, especially with many "starts".

Some high end Compact Hot Cathode Germicidal Lights/Bulbs such as those made by Norman Lamps UV; G23, G11 have small metal pre-heat elements that aid in starting and reduce cold start times and wear and tear on the filament.

These seeming negatives of a mercury vapor low pressure Hot Cathode Quartz Germicidal Bulb aside, these UV lamps produce an optimum 95% UV-C at 254nm, which is what you need for proper sterilization.

In steps the Cold Cathode germicidal lamps or blended medium pressure lamps.
Many sellers of these lower price, longer life UV Replacement Bulbs (often sadly sold at eBay) claim these bulbs will provide longer life & easy/quick lamp starts often at a lower price.
While this is true, these lamps/bulbs produce UV-C irradiation that can be as low as 185nm (which produces undesirable ozone) and as high as 330nm (which is UVB, not UVC).
Obviously I am providing generalizations since these light vary greatly, but what is clear is you are not achieving the optimum 95% UV-C at 254nm (see UV (UVC) lamps (Bulbs) used in Aquariums and Ponds and how they work for a graph).

Sadly many buyers are impressed by the "easy starts" these cold cathode UV Bulbs provide and the fact that these long life/low output UV Bulbs will often light in UV Sterilizers with worn ballasts that do not have the energy (voltage surge) to fire/start a Hot Cathode Germicidal UV-C lamp/bulb.
Add to this problem that many UV Sterilizers ballasts of degrade quickly (especially when used for ponds where more moisture is present) resulting in the uninformed user believing that their low end UV bulb is actually better than a a premium UV-C Hot Cathode Quartz Germicidal Light/Bulb when the opposite is the truth.
Even popular UV Sterilizers such as the over rated Turbo Twist has a high ballast degradation rate (see: Potential UV Sterilizer Problems; Weak or Poor Quality Ballasts).

Purchasing a High Output 254nm UV-C Hot Cathode Germicidal Bulb for a UV with a weak/degraded ballast that will not light/fire a high output bulb, then purchasing a low output long life bulb that does work with this weak ballast is not an indicator of bulb quality; in fact quite the opposite.
Unfortunately many manufacturers now even sell these almost useless for UVC sterilization cold cathode UV bulbs as these will almost always light and this allows for UV Sterilizers with a poor ballast design that does not last long to appear to be functioning.
Worse yet, I have had customers/clients forward emails/letter claiming only their "original equipment" UV replacement bulbs should be used as their UV Sterilizers may not light the vastly superior hot cathode UV Bulbs. The result if a potential customer falls for this is a UV Sterilizer that is almost useless as it is producing a fraction of the necessary UVC energy!
This is putting the blame in the wrong place, keeping a UV Sterilizer with a ballast that has degraded and then only using cold cathode UV Bulbs makes no sense at all; why have a UV Sterilizer that is only 20% effective??

Such is the case with this amusing email:
"If many manufacturers are using easy start bulbs to make up for so called "weak ballasts" then why does the website (selling hot cathode UVC Bulbs) say hot cathode bulbs are compatible with their units? They clearly are not compatible with the majority of units."

The logic here totally escapes me!!

*First this is not true, I am speaking about degraded ballasts, as even a new Coralife will fire a hot cathode "True" UV-C bulb, but a degraded electronic ballast will not.
Using the Coralife again as an example, my aquarium maintenance business has serviced many of these over the last decade, with a high quality UV C lamp working fine, but once the ballast degrades, only a cold cathode or 'old' (mostly expired) hot cathode will fire (it is noteworthy that the life span of a Coralife ballast is lower than many UVs). The FACTS are that these ARE compatible with the majority of unit, assuming a fully functional, non degraded electronic ballast/transformer.

*Second; Such a comment shows a total lack of understanding of fluorescent ballasts.
A magnetic ballast would not have such a problem, since these utilize a fluorescent starter to provide correct "surge" voltage to light the UV-C Bulb.
However most UV Sterilizers/Clarifiers utilize electronic ballasts of which many have poor circuitry that is easily degraded, especially by moisture; Once this happens a hot cathode true UVC Bulb cannot light.
See: Weak of Poor Quality Ballasts

*Third; the UV-C bulbs I have used in sold in my professional endeavors of aquarium/pond design and maintenance do and have worked in the majority of units

*Forth (and I will repeat myself), why would you want a UV Sterilizer that only makes a "pretty blue light" that is about 20% effective for UV Sterilization??

See also: Electronic UV Sterilizer Ballasts; Lamp Problems

The bottom line is do not be fooled either by the low price, long life claims, or ease of lighting (or lighting at all with a weak ballast) of these long life/easy start UV Bulbs, as these are not the reason you should be purchasing a replacement UV Bulb.
Your UV Sterilizer is meant for Sterilization (not a pretty "blue" light) and this will NOT be achieved with these low output UV bulbs (especially level 2 sterilization)!!

Sadly some manufactures utilize low output UV bulbs such as Hagen Laguna; these UV bulbs are very inferior to high output UV bulbs and the result is no Level One UV Sterilization and even poor Green Water control.

For further resources see these articles:

*UV Sterilization; Facts & Myths
*UV Bulb Troubleshooting Guide

For the Best Very Best UV Sterilizer for your Pond or Aquarium:

TMC Advantage & Vecton Premium UV Sterilizer

There is not any better UV Sterilizer for both durability and UV-C irradiation effectiveness than the TMC Advantage and Vecton UV Sterilizer line, at any price!

Internal, Submersible UV Sterilizer Filter, Pump; Review

2010-12-23T10:41:00.001-08:00

Internal (Submersible)UV Sterilizer Filter/Pump Combinations including the newer & better designed 3rd generation SunSun Internal CUP-613 13 Watt & CUP-609 9 Watt UV Pump/Filters

Updated 11-15-11

I have written previous about the poor quality JBJ Submariner and Green Killing Machine earlier in this article/post:
Potential UV Sterilizer Problems, Equipment to Avoid such as Submersible UV Sterilizers/Clarifiers

These first generation Internal UV Filter/Pumps created a lot of excitement (at least among many aquarium maintenance professionals I know), however as these were purchased and then run, their short comings became apparent.
In particular the problem of leakage causing electrical shorts and often destroying the UV, this problem was even more prevalent with the Green Killing Machine and their rather bizarre un-professional phone call to me about my reply to a comment they posted on MY YouTube UV Sterilizer video tells me this is not a company I could recommend.
The Submariner is a slight improvement, however this UV is still not all that well designed in both water flow rate & pattern (resulting only in clarification abilities, not level 1 sterilization), and sealing of the UV Bulb & Quartz Sleeve.

Although still inferior to out of the water, high dwell time UV Sterilizers (such as the TMC Vecton or Advantage); the SunSun appears to have finally gotten this great idea correct!

However the another entry into the field of Internal UVs are still incorrect as per their flow rate; The AquaTop UV Sterilizer Pump 3, 5, 7, & 9 watt are actually no better than the Submariner or similar early generation Internal UVs (please read more about these later in the article).

First the Heavy duty 13 watt and 9 watt UV Pump/Filter design with double O Rings seems to have solved the leakage/UVC short problem (these are the early results I referred to), and the flow pattern/design is also improved over earlier Submariner and similar models.
My only negative is "rated" flow rate, however as per our tests this "rated" flow rate is not the actual flow rate; the actual/adjusted flow is much better for level one UV Sterilization. The propeller design of the impeller has little head pressure which actually is better for maintaining a flow rate of 25 gph per watt in the vertical configuration.

The 13 Watt CUP-613 Pump/Filter Model performed well in initial tests, however the 9 Watt UV CUP-609 Pump/Filter Model uses the same 528 gallons per hour manufacturer rated water pump as the 13 watt model which is simply too high for level 1 UV Sterilization, HOWEVER later tests/adjustments in configuration showed only a 160 gph flow rate in an aquarium in the vertical configuration which is appropriate for level 1 sterilization (9 times 25 = 225 gph or less).
This flow rate also makes more sense based the 6 watt pump motor, however many retailers of this otherwise good product (which is sold under multiple brand names)are marketing these incorrectly due to their poor product knowledge/testing methods.

A few Problems with the new SunSun Internal UV Sterilizer:

*While the SunSun and exact models sold under different brand names have improved in this area over the Submariner, AquaTop UV Sterilizer Pump 3 watt and more; these are still below the level of sterilization when compared to either compact UVs or especially the Premium High Dwell Time UVs.

*As well the SunSun and exact models sold under different brand names have improved on the design that prevents electrical shorts, HOWEVER from feedback from my network of aquarium professionals, these still are not as durable as MOST out of water UV Sterilizers.
This said, these are still of a better design as per durability than the earlier generation submersible Internal UV Pump/Filters as well as the plethora in-line submersible UVs such as the AquaTop and others.

My suggestions/recommendation for the 13 Watt or 9 Watt UV Pump/Filter is this is an reasonably well designed device for water clarification or basic level 1 Sterilization for small ponds or small to medium aquariums, especially for those desiring a simple UV application without the availability of a canister filter or similar to power a standard UV Sterilizer.
HOWEVER for those needing top notch level 1 sterilization and most certainly level 2 sterilization, this new device is not for you (especially in demanding environments or larger ponds/aquariums).
For these applications consider the excellent but economical Terminator UV Sterilizer or for top notch professional applications, the TMC Advantage or Vecton UV Sterilizers.

Also consider where you purchase your new Internal UV Sterilizer Pump (as noted earlier these are sold under many brand names, but made in the same factory), as most retailers selling these have no knowledge of UV Sterilization and will tell you what you want to hear/read and also supply no customer service or product knowledge of use..

These UV Filters Below Should be Avoided!

The AquaTop PH-8/UV-3, 5, 7, & 9 watt UV Sterilizer Pump are not of the more robust filter and UV flow design as the larger SunSun CUP-613 & CUP-609, rather these are simply knock offs of the "cheesie" internal UV flow and over all design of the earlier Internal UV pumps (& sadly still sold by Amazon and Dr. Fosters/Smith).
The low prices of these as well as the Submariner, etc. reflect their poor design.
As an example, the cheesie PH-8/UV-3 marketed for undergravel filters runs at 158 gph with a 3 watt UV bulb; HOWEVER as per correct Level One UV Sterilization, this would require a flow of UNDER 75 gph to be effective!! Avoid retailers that attempt to market these

These along with the earlier previously mentioned JBJ Submariner, Killing Machines, etc. UV Pumps SHOULD BE AVOIDED!

As final note, as with any UV Sterilizer, changing the UV Bulb every six months is important for optimum operation (a must for level 1 sterilization).

By Steven W.

Correct UV Sterilizer/Clarifier Applications

2010-06-05T18:19:00.001-07:00

I often get questions or even complaints about the use of UV Sterilizers/Clarifiers for Aquariums & Ponds.
I will answer a couple of questions that indicate the improper of UV Sterilization for Ponds or Aquariums.

Updated 9/07/10

(1)Question; My Pond turns pea soup green as soon as my UV Sterilizer UV-C Bulb burns out or is removed;

Answer; This certainly shows that you have a correctly installed and functional UV Clarifier.
However this also tells me that you depend too much on your UV Clarifier/Sterilizer as although I certainly recommend these devices, a pond keeper should not have a system that is all or nothing as per the UV Clarifier.
I strongly suggest increasing filtration, especially bio filtration that removes many of the nutrients necessary for an algae bloom.
A Bio Falls Filter (either purchased or DIY), a Pressurized Pond Filter can either be added or even duplicated.
Another type of Filter I set up in over 90% of my ponds is the "Veggie Filter". Properly constructed these plant filters can really "scrub" many nutrients otherwise utilized by free floating algae,
I have found in ponds with good mechanical/bio filters such as a Pressurized Pond filter along with a Veggie Filter rarely got overly green in summer when the UV Clarifier was disconnected or broke down.

For further information about pond veggie filters, please see this article from "Aquarium/Pond Answers":
"Veggie Filters".

(2)Question: I have been told a UV Sterilizer does not really help a saltwater or freshwater aquarium other than clarity. I did not see any difference than this when I added a 9 Watt UV Sterilizer to my aquarium sump (a pump rated at 900 gph)

Answer: This answer is much more complex than the last, so I will first state that a thorough reading of this blog and even more the UV Sterilization article below should be done:
"UV Sterilization; Facts and Information"

A few points: First of all at 900 gallons per hour is much too fast for a 9 Watt UV to perform Sterilization, and likely little clarification either.
*Many persons who slam UV Sterilizers for aquarium use stating they are useless have them incorrectly installed or are utilizing Sterilizer/Clarifier devices of poor quality for anything other than clarification (such as the "Green Killing Machine").

*Here are three parameters required for effective UV Sterilization that are often missed:

Flow Rate; this should be 45-50 gph per watt for Clarification, 20-25 gph per watt for level 1 Sterilization, & 8-10 gph per watt for level 2 Sterilization.
For more in depth exposure time information, please see “UV Sterilization; UVC Penetration (Microwatts second/cm2)”, the sections dealing with UV-C Penetration gives a more detailed explanation of the time required to kill pathogens based on wattage & distance for the UV-C source (for example the bacteria Vibrio requires a UVC exposure of 6500 mW/cm2 or more, this means an exposure time of 5.68 seconds for a 9 watt UV lamp is required to kill this pathogen).
Aquarium (or Pond) Turnover rate; this should be Once per 2-3 hours for Clarification, 1.5 times per hour for level 1 Sterilization, & Up to 4 times per hour for level 2 Sterilization
UV-C Penetration; in simple terms this is often a problem with the equipment itself with too much distance from the bulb to the outer wall of water containment resulting in much of the water not being properly irradiated even with proper flow rate or turnover rate.
Examples are Canister/Pressurized filters equipped with built in UV-C Lamps, internal UVs such as the before noted Submariner/Killing machine, or even otherwise good UVs with baffles to slow water flow but in turn keep much of the water at too great a distance form the UV-C Irradiation.

For further explanation, please read the before mentioned "UV Sterilization Article

Aquarium UV Sterilizer Combinations

2010-02-15T16:09:00.000-08:00

Unique Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilizer Combinations; Sponge Filter, Power Head, Internal Filter

Updated 7/19/11

This post/article is intended to provide some unique (or "outside the box") combinations of different ways to connect a UV Sterilizer to an aquarium (or even Pond).
Most aquarium /pond keepers are aware of the use of canister filters or sump pumps for aquariums or pressurized filter or similar pond filters for ponds.

Hopefully these ideas will be food for thought for those sitting on the fence as to whether a UV Sterilizer is feasible for their pond or particularly aquarium. Even small aquarium keepers (such as a 20 gallon) miss the benefits that a UV Sterilizer provides due perceived high costs or filters that cannot accommodate a UV Sterilizer (such as a Power HOB filter like an Aqua Clear). Often even a small aquarium keeper can spend more on medications or lost fish than the cost of a UV Sterilizer (& this does not even factor in the heartbreak many feel at the loss of a finned pet). This is not to say that a UV Sterilizer will stop all losses, however I can say emphatically after 30 years of testing and using UV Sterilization in many different aquariums (including controlled tests) that a properly installed and well designed UV Sterilizer will lower the incidence of disease, & increase longevity and over all health by killing many disease pathogens in the water and by improving the Aquarium/pond Redox Balance.
An important key is "properly installed and well designed UV Sterilizer" as there are some UV Sterilizers that we have tested that have failed either in effectiveness or in reasonable longevity (such as the popular Submariner/Internal UV Sterilizers that a few stores and web sites are unfortunately promoting).

A well made UV Sterilizer will not be effective at flow rates over 25-30 gph per watt for Sterilization (higher for green water control). Some of the more efficient UV Sterilizers such as the TMC Pond Advantage & TMC Vecton have flow patterns that allow the highest possible flow rates while still remaining effective (Bluntly, there is not better line of UVs at any price than the TMC line for Ponds and Aquariums).
See the picture to the left which displays what sets a premium high flow design UV Sterilizer apart from the rest (this is a TMC Pond Advantage 25 Watt UV Sterilizer/Clarifier).

As well, if the UV Bulbs/Lamps are not changed every six months (the quartz sleeve should also be cleaned at this time). See this website for a cross reference guide if you already have a UV Sterilizer but have failed to change the UVC Bulb in the last six months: See "UV Bulbs" for a cross reference directory of premium UV Lamps/Bulbs

Here are a few different ways to connect a UV Sterilizer to your Aquarium or Pond (often quite cheaply too):
Please Click on most pictures to enlarge for a better view

*This first combination can be used with many power heads such as the Via Aqua 1300 and Sponge Filter such as the Hydro Sponge #3 pictured here (you can also remove the base for better aesthetics, it was left on in this picture to avoid any confusion). This combination also employs a return and intake adapter.

A larger pump such as the Via Aqua 2600 or even the "high end" Rio HF line of Pumps can be substituted for a larger aquarium or pond, as well the Hydro Pond #4 is well design for this application too without need for adaptation for most pumps (see the small inset picture).

*This combination is quite straight forward for use in small aquariums (or even patio ponds that have "walls").
This picture demonstrates a Via Aqua 480 along with a Hydro Sponge #3 Filter and return and intake adapters. Obviously other power head brands can be adapted as well and although one can purchase the return/intake adapters (see the link in the previous sentence), these can also be a simple DIY project too.

*This third combination can employ either an Internal Filter such as the Via Aqua 305 Power Filter pictured here (again other brands can work) or a power head such as the Rio 1000 Power Head/Pump.
This is a simple DIY or purchased aquarium UV Sterilizer/Filter combination that is quite popular

UV Sterilizer Problems & Reviews; Ballasts, Turbo Twist, Submersible Pond, Killing Machine UVC Clarifiers

2009-12-17T08:08:00.001-08:00

Potential UV Sterilizer Problems, Equipment to Avoid such as Submersible UV Sterilizers/Clarifiers

Updated 1/20/12

While this website/blog is meant to show research as well as more subjective reasons to utilize UVC Sterilization for ponds, aquariums, air purification, & surface/equipment disinfection; there are also pitfalls in methods and equipment that can make a “bad experience” in UV Sterilizer use/ownership (this is also how anecdotal statements about ineffective UVC Sterilizations starts too).

I will also preface this post/article to state that although many of my articles/posts here and elsewhere about UV Sterilization and its uses are based on good objective research from both myself and many others, this post/article is based more on use, feedback, observations and similar (although some of the forthcoming content is based on objective tests). In other words although I will be as objective as possible, this post also includes subjective commentary.

INDEX

Equipment, UV Sterilizers

Tetra UV Sterilizers
Garden Treasures UV
JBJ Submariner & Green Killing Machine
Submersible UVs; Pondmaster & AquaTop
Cal Pumps UV

Other Potential Problems

Too High a Flow Rate
UVC Transmittance
Failure to Change the UV Bulb
Weak or Poor Quality Ballasts; JEBO, CORALIFE TURBO TWIST, LAGUNA, & SUNTERRA

EQUIPMENT, UV STERILIZERS:

I will start this post/article off with some equipment that I do not recommend and why:

*Jebo UV Sterilizers: These Sterilizers have a couple of problems, first is that ballasts/transformers do not last and from my experience and others in the professional Aquarium/pond maintenance business observations, they often fail in less than a year (see the ballast section).
As well even when the transformers continue to work, Jebo often uses non industry standard UV Bulbs for their units, and example would be the 11 watt and 36 watt which utilize a bulb that is not of standard length making it more difficult to find a replacement and when this replacement can be found, it is often more expensive do to this problem.

*Tetra UV: Honestly I am not a fan of this company on so many levels of their aquatic products (& this goes back many years in the business and includes talking with others in the industry at trade shows that know Tetra and its products well).
However their UV Sterilizers generally work well and last well too. The problem with the Tetra UVs is that as with Jebo, Tetra also is constantly utilizing non industry standard UVC Bulbs. Luckily one manufacturer is only a step behind Tetra and so the G7 9 Watt UV Bulb and the G11 18 Watt Bulb that is non standard and VERY expensive if purchased from Tetra is available elsewhere.

The other problem is that Tetra (as with their fish foods and some other products) is that Tetra has done a good marketing job to convince many that a Tetra UV Sterilizer that often is twice the price is better than units such as the Terminator UV (which is of equal or better quality for often half the price). When one considers that a replacement ballast would likely cost more than a new Terminator UV Sterilizer, it makes more sense to simply replace your UV Sterilizer/Clarifier.
Please note that I have been using Terminator UVs since 1998 (along with many others which include the Tetra, Jebo, Turbo Twist) and had few problems; generally just a rare broken/defective part, as to this date not one defective ballast unlike many other compact UV Sterilizers.
If you are determined to spend more, why not get more and get a true high performance, high output UV Sterilizer for the same price such as the TMC Pond Advantage/Vecton Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilizer?

*Garden Treasures: A popular discount home improvement/hardware store brand that often fails within a year and has a poor design that is often very ineffective

*JBJ Submariner UV Sterilizer/Clarifier, Green Killing Machine
Although an excellent idea in theory, this is a good example of what is often wrong with the aquarium/pet industry as many (including myself) thought this was a good idea in theory, in practical use it failed (I tested several through my aquarium maintenance company and related professional aquarium/pond community friends before I would sell to the general public). However most others, including some of the biggest names in internet Aquarium/Pet supplies purchased and sold these lemons without any testing which is sadly so typical any more.
Many such as PetStore.Com have since discontinued this UV Sterilizer.

The problem was not that they did not work, as they did (or more specifically for free floating algae, NOT Level 1 or 2 UV Sterilization), but only for a while before the seals failed and they shorted out (this is a major problem with the Submariner, which sadly still sells in considerable volume).

As well I should note that a company representative spammed a YouTube video about UV Sterilizer installation about their product and when I noted (in a reply comment) that I disagreed with this product based on use, they phoned me with the nastiest and most naïve comments I could ever fathom (keep in mind that I did not seek them out, they sought me out). In my view, this is not a company I could ever recommend giving business to.
As well Dr. Fosters & Smith (a company not well regarded in most honest aquarium industry circles such as Quality Marine, Quality Pets, and many others), continues to sell these which does not say much for the quality.

Another problem is flow rate in the smaller Killing Machine/Submariners (5 watt and to a lesser extent the 9 watt) which is too high for proper UV sterilization, which is best under 25 gallons per hour per watt (clearing green algae only requires 45 gph per watt, which is why these work for green water, but often not so well for bacterial pathogen control or Redox).
Sadly many purchase the Green Killing Machine or Submariner expecting UVC Level 1 Sterilization, and these units simply do NOT perform this. So at best these are just water clarification tools for as long as they last.

What really blows my mind is the "good" reviews posted on forums, etc that do not reflect anything about their durability or the fact these cannot perform level 1 sterilization, so unsuspecting buyers read these very unscientific reviews then purchase these. I know this from emails and my Aquarium maintenance colleagues that report these failures or complain that they are not seeing any Redox or sterilization results. The unfortunately part here (again based on emails, etc.) is that these persons then become convinced that UV sterilization is a gimmick further fanning the myth that UV Sterilizers are useless for anything other than Sterilization!!!

Better would be to put together a proven yet economical Terminator UV Sterilizer (or TMC Vecton for a premium High Dwell Time UV) and a Internal Filter or power head combination or purchase a UV/Filter Kit that includes both.
If you prefer the simplicity of an internal UV Sterilizer, the AquaTop UV Pump/Filter would be a better choice over the Green Killing Machine or Submariner, however even this Internal UV Sterilizer cannot match the Sterilization capabilities of a stand alone UV Sterilizer such as the Terminator or especially a high performance model such as the TMC Advantage or Vecton.

*Submersible Inline Pond UV; Pondmaster, and others

These UV Sterilizers are designed to go inline, orginally in pond and more recently aquarium versions have been added. This UV Sterilizer/Clarifier goes inline (between the pump and water outlet) under your aquarium or pond water.
These UV Sterilizers have found appeal as to their lower price due to simplicity of desing and due to the generally easy installation.

However these positive selling attributes are also their downfall as to reliable UV Sterilizer abilities.
The aquarium versions are very low tech with poor dwell time and simple construction that often results in leaks that destroy the electrical compnents in as little as 6 months. The result is usually Level One Sterilization is NOT achieved and a UV Sterilizer that is worthless for any type of Sterilization in as little as six months.

As for the PondMaster Submersible; when functioning this Pond UV Sterilizer generally does a good job for grrem water control, however/unfortunately, this UV also has seals that fail resulting in electrical shorts (often due to moisture), with our pond service and related professional contacts reporting premature ballast failures (often within months) or "blown" bulbs when a new replacement UV-C Bulb/light is replaced. Sometimes when the replacement bulb blows the filament a thorough cleaning of electrical of any possible moisture can get this UV Sterilizer up and running again (& as I noted earlier, it does do a good job when it does work), the down side is this can be a matter of trial and error with replacement UV-C Bulbs/Lights that cost over $42.

For pond or aquarium use stay away from these submersible UV Sterilizers, consider a heavy duty high dwell time UV Sterilizer such as the proven long life TMC Aquarium Vecton & Pond Advantage UV Sterilizer (these also can be used for aquariums).

*Cal Pumps UV

Cal Pumps (2007 and newer) has gone the proprietary route similar to Tetra with new G24 base UV Bulbs. Luckily other sources for the 18 Watt G24 Bulb now exist.
As well there are now outside sources for the 36 Watt Cal Pump Spiral UV Bulb. However regardless of replacement bulb availability this Cal Pump spiral UV bulb/lamp has minor restrike issues and worse has terrible UV-C exposure time based on its overly compact spiral design.
The Cal Pump 36 Watt Pond UV Sterilizer with the spiral bulb is a device that really has me scratching my head as to why persons even purchase this when there are better compact UV sterilizers available (such as the Terminator 36 Watt) or better yet the TMC Pond Advantage Premium UV Sterilizer which at 25 watts has a vastly better flow and exposure design and would well outperform the higher wattage Cal Pump spiral 36 watt UV!!
Of coarse part of the answer (as someone who has been in the aquarium/pond industry for well over 3 decades) is who is selling these Cal Pump UVs and one the sellers is Dr. F & S which is notorious for their ethics in selling poor quality products or not providing correct customer service for the good products that they sell.

Aquarium Green Water Control; UV Sterilizer

2009-11-16T12:58:00.000-08:00

Pictures of an UV Sterilizer System for the Clarification Green or Cloudy Water in Aquariums
Updated 3-31-11

This is a basic post that more entails the use of pictures that were provided to me courtesy Paul Phillips to demonstrate via photos the progress of tank water clarification with the use of a Custom 15 Watt UV Sterilizer/Clarifier.
Before I preceed, I should note that this is not limited to the use of the custom 15 Watt UV, as any well made UV can perform green water control, however level 1 UV Sterilization (what I recommend) and level 2 UV Sterilization often requires better equipment, installation and flow rates.
Sadly much of the UV equipment now being sold at best can only perform green water control, not the more effective level one sterilization. Besides the before mentioned UV Sterilizer, consider the premium TMC Vecton/ Advantage line of UV Sterilizers as these not only are durable, but bluntly the best non commercial UVs at any price.

Please Click on all Pictures to enlarge for a better view

The first picture demonstrates his aquarium system showing the intake adapter, return adapter, the power head/pump, and the UV Sterilizer under the aquarium.
I would also suggest the use of a Pre filter such as the Filter Max #3 (or a Sponge Filter such as the Hydro Sponge #3) for improved UV Sterilization as this lowers debris/turbidity in the water column which in turn improves the effectiveness of the UV Sterilizer. Other than the lack of a form of pre-filtration, this is an excellent set up.

This second picture demonstrates a before and after of this aquarium after the application of the UV Sterilizer:

This final photo demonstrates a day 1 through day 7 view of this same aquarium when viewed from the side panel (this view is through a 48 inch column of water and thus will show any cloudy/green water more readily):

As a final note, to maintain the effectiveness of this or any UV Sterilizer, the aquarium keeper should change the UV Bulb every six months; in this particular UV Sterilizer the required bulb is the G15T8 UV Bulb

I would also suggest reading this article in the section dealing with Cloudy & Green Water for other suggestions and causes of Green/Cloudy Water in freshwater aquariums:
Freshwater Aquarium Care, Information, Basics

UV-C Air Purifers, Surface Disinfection, Ozone

2009-10-13T09:14:00.001-07:00

Use of UVC for Home or Office Air Purification & Surface Sterilization as well reasons Ozone producing Purifiers are not recommended.

Sections:

Overview
UV-C Irradiation Pathogen Table
Ozone Production
Home/Business Purifier Types

Updated 2/02/11

Overview

Although most of the posts/articles in this weblog are aimed at Aquarium and Pond use of UV Sterilization/Purification, I think some time should be spent on another application for UVC radiation, especially with the onset of Flu season (including the H1N1 flu virus; AKA “the Swine Flu”). Hospitals have been employing UVC air purification systems for years do to their effectiveness in checking the spread of air borne pathogens.
Another pathogen generally spread by air is Tuberculosis; a person with Tuberculosis (TB) of the lungs or larynx can release droplets containing Mycobacterium tuberculosis into the air by coughing, sneezing, talking, or breathing. These droplets, called droplet nuclei, can cause TB infection if inhaled by anyone who shares air with the person who has Tuberculosis.

The influenza virus is actually one of the more easily destroyed pathogens by UV Radiation with only 6600 mW/cm2 required to kill this virus. Put simply, a 9 Watt UV bulb can kill this virus with an exposure time of 5.68 seconds. (See this article for further information about mW/cm2: “UVC, Watts, Microwatts, Joules, & light penetration”).
This makes for a very simple way of destroying many harmful pathogens in the home or office with an air purifier equipped with UVC bulbs.

Here are a few other pathogens and the required amount of UVC Iradiation (given in mW/cm2):

This list is far from a complete list, as it is only intended to convey what the addition of UVC to an air (or even water) purification system can do for your home or office.

Ozone Production;

Generally most new Air Purifiers use non-ozone producing UVC bulbs; in fact the State of California has banned ozone producing air purifiers.
Please reference this article: http://www.arb.ca.gov/research/indoor/ozone.htm
However I should note that many air purifier manufacturers have switched to non-ozone producing UV bulbs (the aquarium/pond UV manufacturers have used non ozone producing UV bulbs as long as I have been in the industry). So if your air purifier is on the list of potentially hazardous units, chances are it is no longer is using ozone producing UVC bulbs.
If you have an older unit (such as older Bio-Zone, King Air, Eco-Quest & many others) that may employ the ozone producing bulbs, I would suggest simply switching these bulbs out with a new non ozone producing UV Bulb.

I would add as to ozone production and some of the negative reviews of some air purifiers; these reviews are all old and based on models that used ozone producing UV Bulbs from what I have read. My thought is that these headaches some complained of were due to ozone production. Headaches cannot be caused by contained non-ozone UVC purifiers.

Please also reference this article (below) for more information as to why you should not purchase an Ozone producing purifier or replace your UV-C Lamp with an ozone producing lamp:
“Ozone Purifiers Research References”

Sadly many replacement bulb sellers or even purifier manufacturers still sell ozone producing UV-C Lamps, even many consumers strangely demand these UV-C Ozone producing bulbs (to me this is like demanding the sale of carbon monoxide suicide machines for ones home?).
In fact here is a quote from the website of a seller of the BioZone Air Purifer:
"Please Note: This air cleaner does not meet California requirements and cannot be shipped to California.".
If this does not speak volumes, I do not know what does!

Types;

The two most common types are the stand alone air purifier that employs UVC radiation in a shielded are of the unit or the in-Duct UV Air purifier that fits simply into most home or office air or ventilation systems.

The Sharper Image Ionic Breeze Air Purifier (pictured at the top of this article) has been around for some and employs a common 15 watt T8 UV bulb, however this unit has mixed reviews from many.

Bio zone makes several popular models of stand alone air purifiers and in duct air purifiers (pictured to the left).
Popular models include the 1000, 2000, & 3000 Air Purifiers along with the 1500 and 2500 in duct purifiers.
Most Bio zone products employ a T5 10 Watt UV Bulb

Another popular air purifier is the CaluTech “Blue” and Mini in-duct air purifiers. These in duct purifiers are simple to install and the three most popular models employ either the 18 Watt Twin Tube UV bulb (Mini), the 36 Watt Twin Tube UV bulb (original “Blue”), or the 55 Watt Twin Tube UV bulb (Blueray Super Output UV Air Purifier).

The picture below demonstrates and air duct before and after the installation of an in-duct UV purifier as per black mold (the left side is before, the right side is after):

Another device growing in popularity for home (& restaurant too) is the "Pocket Purifier"

The Purely Pocket Purifier has a built-in UVC light bulb (lamp) that when turned on and exposed to surface areas or items needing to be disinfected/purified, will destroy the germs and bacteria killing their DNA, and preventing them from reproducing and growing.

References:
*http://uvairpurifiers.com/
*http://www.americanairandwater.com/uv_facts/tb_uv.htm
* Study: Indoor Air Purifiers That Produce Ozone Are Unsafe
*UV Replacement Bulb Reference Guide for UVC Lamps

UV Sterilizer Questions/Myths Answered

2009-09-01T13:10:00.001-07:00

More UV Sterilizer Questions/Myths Answered

In this post I will answer two questions (or possibly “myths”) about the use of UV Sterilizer in Aquariums and Ponds based on email and phone questions I often get.
The questions are:
• Filter placement in relation to UV Sterilizer in ponds.
• Danger of UV Sterilizers to copepods in reef aquariums.

(1) Question: Is the UV best placed after or before a filter in a pond?

This question is myth based as there are valid reasons for both applications.
However based on my own use and controlled tests using UV Sterilizers with filters before, after, or not at all, the answer of using the UV Sterilizer after the filter is the better choice.

Let me explain further; when placed before a pond filter with no pre-filtration, you do catch “clumped” algae coming from the UV Sterilizer (this is even more noteworthy when a UV is run a flow rate over 25 gph per watt to 50 gph per watt as this higher flow rate will generally not kill algae outright, rather “clump” the algae where it will be expelled from the UV Sterilizer into the pond water column, then it either falls to the bottom of the pond becoming pat of the organic mulm/detritus and/or may be picked up by the pump and filter and removed. This is a reason and the ONLY to place a filter after a UV Sterilizer in pond applications.

With previous paragraph in mind, the generally better way to utilize a filter with a UV Sterilizer is to place the filter prior to the UV Sterilizer. The reason is that turbidity in the water will lower UV Sterilizer effectiveness, sometimes (based on my tests) to levels that render the UV Sterilizer ineffective. This often results in the misinformed comment that UV Sterilizers do not work (based on emails and phone calls). Pre-filtering the water improves the function of UV Sterilizer by trapping larger particulates, thus allowing more of the UVC radiation to reach the algae that is causing green water (this also improves destruction of disease pathogens at lower flow rates in both aquariums and ponds).

The other reason for pre-filtration of pond water is I have often have had success in initial clarification of pond water with no pre-filtration, but over time (& sometimes only a few weeks), sludge will build up in the UV Sterilizer (often in recesses around the UV Bulb or quartz sleeve) rendering the UV Sterilizer/Clarifier useless. This doe not mean that pre-filtration does not prevent sludge from building, as it does not, but it most definitely slows down the accumulation of sludge, as well the time it takes to buildup sludge in your pond UV Sterilizer depends on water turbidity, algae, bio load and obviously the quality of your pre-filter.

*I should note that having both a pre-filter and a post filter (such as a DIY Bio falls or similar filter that fits into the water return prior to re-entering the pond) would be an excellent combination.

(2) Question: Will a UV Sterilizer kill off my beneficial copepod & other crustaceans colonies in my reef tank?

Although not as common a question as the previous question, it still crops up from time to time and I have much harder time understanding why otherwise quite advanced reef keeper fall for what amounts to a UV Sterilizer myth.
As well, my controlled studies admittedly did not include exact counts of copepods with different levels of UV Sterilization or none at all, it did show that copepod colonies when properly established never diminished with UV Sterilizer use in reef tanks.

There is simple explanation for this result; that is most copepods do not occupy the water column in a healthy colony. What is a healthy colony? This is a matter of opinion or experience, but from my perspective a healthy colony is “housed” in large piles of live rock crumbles where many fish such as Mandarin Gobies will seek them out. As well if you are using a Refugium and want to be certain that all of the copepods/ crustaceans that spill out into the aquarium are not killed, then be sure your UV is on its own filter/pump and not returning water to the aquarium using the same return line as the Refugium. Finally whenever you dose your aquarium with certain live products such as live planktonic algae or infusoria, you should turn off the UV sterilizer or use a timer that is tied to certain cycles or automatic dosing.

My final comment to this amounts to another aquarium keeping myth, is one that has made me laugh over the years; and that is I have had clients/customers that have stood by this myth describe or show me their filter system and I have seen (or had them described) several of these filter systems that employ micron filters (such as the Ocean Clear) that can easily trap copepods in their micron filters much more effectively than a UV Sterilizer can kill copepods (in particular adult copepods for which a UV Sterilizer would have to run well under 10 gph per watt to have any chance of destroying any “pods” that get caught in the sterilizer). As well pre-filtration which should be used in any UV Sterilizer application will trap most adult copepods from entering the Sterilizer.
What makes me laugh here is that these same aquarists often had healthy copepod colonies with the use of these Micron Filters (which by the way I am not against the use of, in fact I think are excellent compliments to other aquarium filters, live rock, and healthy deep sand beds). I would explain to them that if these filters did not destroy their “pod” colonies, a UV Sterilize would not either.

Please see this article for more about UV Sterilization and how it works:
UV Sterilization

UVC Irradiation and Immune Response, Aquarium Applications

2009-05-08T13:21:00.001-07:00

UVC irradiation and immune response
This includes human research into BioPhotonic Therapy and UVBI Therapy

Updated 9/27/10

This article/post is meant to expand on my previous article “Fish Immune System and UV Sterilization”), this time utilizing information about UVC irradiation as per human studies and its affect on disease treatment and over all aquatic health.
While the application to fish in aquariums/ponds is somewhat “apples to oranges” in comparison at this point in time, the implications are certainly far reaching as to the affect on Aquatic Redox and fish health.

Since most in depth research is found in human studies due to the costs involved vs. lack of funding in the aquarium keeping hobby as well as the unfortunately common anecdotal comments made about UV Sterilization made by many in the aquarium hobby that are years behind real research; one often needs to go outside the hobby to find good and cutting edge research. In fact I just recently came across this gem of a post of anecdotal bad information from an otherwise good aquatic article: “For me, a UV filter is just a ‘feel good’ device and leads hobbyists into a false sense of security” It is too bad that so many aquarium keepers simply refuse to do their homework, but this is likely to continue considering how lazy many persons can be at times (otherwise how can you explain the popularity of such terrible sites for aquatic information such as Yahoo Answers among many others, or directories such as DMOZ with its outdated directories).

The concept of BioPhotonic Therapy and UVBI Therapy was brought to my attention in an email and phone call by a researcher (Dr. Mamoon Kundi) who found me via my UV and Redox research articles.
One concept is clear and that is that the use of UVC lamps can affect both the oxidizing and reducing side of the Redox Balance equation that is so important for life.

Studies in UV Irradiation

In these studies, blood is irradiated (via different methods), often with very pronounced results. William Campbell Douglass, MD, who treats his patients using only alternatives and has written several books on these subjects, wrote a book called Into the Light, where he recommends Photoluminescence Therapy for the following conditions:
• Immune deficiency problems
• Viral Infections (hepatitis, respiratory, etc.)
• Pneumonia
• Non-healing wounds and wound infections
• Emphysema
• Inflammatory Processes: fibrositis (inflammation of, mainly, the muscle sheath), bursitis, iritis (inflammation of the iris), pancreatitis, etc
• Autoimmune diseases: rheumatoid arthritis, AIDS, etc.
• Osteomyelitis (bacterial infection of the bone marrow)
• Septicemia (virulent infection of the blood)
• Cancer (experimental at present)
• Peripheral vascular disease
• Most vascular disease
• Thrombophlebitis (inflammation of a blood vessel that results in blood clots)

Implications of this research as per aquariums/ponds
While we as aquarium and pond keepers are not too likely to utilize these UV blood irradiation therapies on our fish, this still has implications as to how a UV Sterilizer can be an important part of ANY aquarium keeper’s (or pond keeper) filtration system in that this latest research backs up many of my own tests and research going back to the early 1990s. The implications of the affect of the UV irradiation on how it may not necessarily outright kill pathogenic microbes found in the water column, however it certainly allows for an improved fish immune system response to pathogens, which is one of my earlier findings as well (although I did not know the whys of my test results back then). The affect of UVC irradiation also has a positive affect on Aquarium Redox Balance which is also important for aquatic health.

It is also noteworthy that even with regular water changes, and the addition of mineral cations that both replenish the electrolytes from the reducing side of the equation, this is only a part of what the human studies indicate, and that is while the use of minerals and other antioxidants is certainly a good idea, when there are stressors such as disease pathogens, immune deficiency problems, etc. there is a need for additional ongoing Redox Reduction to counter free radicals that a UV Sterilizer provides that mineral cations cannot provide adequately.

The bottom line is this is just one more piece of evidence that a correctly installed UV Sterilizer should be part of every serious aquarist filtration system, especially those who keep expensive, rare, or delicate fish.

Please read or at least glance over these referenced articles (more to come too):

*http://www.bio-photonictherapy.info/Home_Page.html
*http://www.oxygenhealingtherapies.com/uvb_therapy.html
*http://www.healing.org/only-7.html

As well as my UV Sterilization Article
& Aquarium Redox

UVC, Watts, Microwatts

2009-03-09T08:15:00.001-07:00

UVC, Watts, Microwatts, Joules, & light penetration

This article/post is intended to give some basic understanding between the relationship of watts, microwatts, joules of UVC energy and how this translates to UV Sterilizer effectiveness.

Please keep in mind that the diagram in this article is based on air penetration, so some extrapolation is necessary for use in water applications (which is the primary intention of this article, although the principles apply to UVC air sterilization devices as well)

What is a Watt/Microwatt?

One Joule of energy = 1,000 milliWatt seconds = 1,000,000 microWatt seconds
One joule is the amount of energy required to perform the following actions:

• The work done by a force of one newton traveling through a distance of one meter (a newton is the unit of force equal to the amount of force required to accelerate a mass of one kilogram at a rate of one meter per second per second);
• The work required to move an electric charge of one coulomb (the amount of electric charge transported by a current of 1 ampere in 1 second) through an electrical potential difference of one volt; or one coulomb volt, with the symbol C•V;
• The work done to produce power of one watt continuously for one second; or one watt second (compare kilowatt hour), with the symbol W•s. Thus a kilowatt hour is 3,600,000 joules or 3.6 megajoules;
• The kinetic energy of a 2 kg mass moving at a velocity of 1 m/s. The energy is linear in the mass but quadratic in the velocity, being given by E = ½mv²;
we measure UV-C intensity in Micro-Watts that strike one square centimeter of surface area.

UVC Penetration:
(From UV Sterilization; how it works for aquariums, ponds, & more)

The emission or light intensity of a UVC germicidal light bulb is usually expressed in a term called "microwatts per square centimeter" (Mw/cm2). The maximum intensity provided by a single UVC Bulb is at its surface. So, if we calculate the surface area of the UVC lamp and only use that area which effectively emits UVC light rays, the effective area of UVC transmission will be established. Basic mathematics will show that the surface area of a cylindrical tube is ‘pie’ D L.

Next extrapolate this effective area of UVC transmission as having a screen with squares 1 centimeter in size. Each of these cm2 areas now, for measurement purposes, emits a UVC lamp intensity measured in microwatts, in other words; the term microwatts/cm2. UVC light intensity decreasingly varies as the distance from the UVC light increases.

Put more simply (a non scientific analogy); The amount of wattage will also increase penetration, as a higher watt UVC bulb will generally have more Mw/cm2. In my own experiments I have used 15 watt and 25 watt UVC bulbs in exactly the same unit (both were 18”), if wattage were only considered there would be a 60% increase in effectiveness, however I only observed a about a 25% increase. When I used a 30 Watt UVC bulb in a unit with over twice the exposure as the 15 Watt, the kill rate more than doubled. From my experience, if you increase wattage (and Mw/cm2) you need to also increase the volume of water to maximize the higher watt bulb.
Experiments can also be safely conducted with standard household light bulbs to correlate penetration. For this start with a 7 watt clear bulb (such as a Christmas bulb) and place varying thicknesses of paper/ cardboard in front of the bulb and measure when penetration stops. Continue this with higher and higher wattage bulbs.

The Diagram to the left can give a rough comparison of distance as per UVC energy as expressed by MW/cm2 in Air transmission.
The dose applied by an UV-C lamp installation is a function of the lamp output, the intensity factor, and time. As an equation; Intensity x Exposure time= microwatt seconds/cm2.
As an example, a 9 watt UVC lamp at one inch from the lamp is found by this formula:
9 x 127 = 1143 mW/cm2.
Since many bacteria such as Vibrio require a UVC exposure of 6500 mW/cm2 or more, this means an exposure time of 5.68 seconds is required to kill this pathogen

Now let me point out that even though I have published this diagram, please use this as a rough guide only, as I have found inaccuracies in it. To be more blunt; I have found the distance, wattage, and flow rate to be the MOST IMPORTANT factors in determining exposure/effectiveness. This diagram is STATIC and does NOT take into consideration the dynamics of UVC radiation penetration for which I have yet to find a good formula to demonstrate this (even in University studies).
What is often missing in any equations I have seen is the dynamics of water flow geometry, actual water flow, and wattage. The bottom line is to use this table and others you might find elsewhere with “a grain of salt” noting that these are static and even then are flawed when true output via wattage is taken into consideration.

Further Reading, References, Resources:

* UV Sterilization; how it works for aquariums, ponds, & more

*http://www.hygienitech.com/Hygienitech%20UV-C%20Light%20Primer.pdf

*http://www.solartanic.com/index_022.htm

UV Bulb; Replacement Lamps
The very best UV Replacement Lamps/Bulbs at competitive prices!

Aquarium UV Sterilizer Ideas; Filter Combinations, etc.

2008-11-29T19:44:00.000-08:00

Aquarium UV Sterilizer Ideas; Part Two

Updated 6/12/10

In part one about 18 months ago I noted using intake and return adapters as another way to connect UV Sterilizers to aquariums, especially smaller aquariums where the use of more traditional set ups such as canister filter or sumps is not possible.
In this article I will expand on this idea and as well note some problems with many sump set ups and with the growing popularity of internal UV Sterilizers, which although they make work, they are prone to leak problems that usually result in a short lifespan.

First I will start with the use of power heads, pumps, or Internal Filters (which is my first choice do to pre filtration of water allowing for a more effective UV Sterilizer).

Here is a basic picture for plumbing a compact UV Sterilizer using an Internal Filter or Power Head. The lines and can be much more neatly placed than the diagram (this is just for emphasis). This demonstration is shown on the front of the tank for easier viewing, obviously this would be placed on the back of an aquarium.
You may also place your power head/ internal filter on its side for an easier tubing application.
The picture can be enlarged by clicking on it too!

The advantage of this set up is it allows a small (or larger aquarium) that may only have a HOB filter such as a Whisper to also have a UV Sterilizer PLUS more filtration and filter redundancy.
In all bluntness this type of set up is not all that expensive when you consider the costs of fish and medications or simply piece of mind that a UV Sterilizer can provide in improving water quality (such as Redox) and lower water borne disease incidence. This is not to say that a UV Sterilizer will solve all your problems, but they are often a major piece of the good water parameter puzzle and in my experience should be included in most aquarium set ups if at all possible. Please see this article for more why: UV Sterilization

Here is a picture of an inexpensive set up that starts at $83.99 and is ready to go for an aquarium as small as a 10 gallon aquarium (there are set ups such as the 9 watt that would easily work for a 100 gallon aquarium)
Please follow this link for more information about these kits: Terminator UV Sterilizers/ Filter Kits
Please click pictures to enlarge

Similar to the above ideas, many UV Sterilizers (such as the Custom UV Sterilizer) can be hung on the back and then connected to an Internal Filter such as the Via Aqua Internal Filter or other similar Internal Filters for a simple UV application, especially when a canister filter is not available or practical (or even desired).

SUMP USE of UV STERILIZERS

A popular use of UV Sterilizers is in the sumps of high flow sump systems of large aquariums (especially marine), unfortunately the majority that I have seen when called out on service calls were installed improperly often resulting in the owner of the system to pronounce the UV Sterilizer a "failure" when in actuality the flow rate was way to fast for the UV Sterilizer wattage installed. As a generalization it is best to have a flow rate of under 20-30 gph per watt for a UV to be effective for bacteria, Redox, algae (slower yet for parasites) This flow rate can vary based on many factors that I will go into here (I recommend reading the link earlier in this article for more on this subject), I will only state that although you do not need to pay a fortune for a UV Sterilizer, most of the units selling for under $50 are junk and even a few name brands selling for over $100 are not delivering what you pay for.

UV Sterilizer Diverter Valves are the answer to most high flow pump problems; For use with ponds, sumps, or any high flow water application where the flow rate exceeds the recommended GPH per watt.
See this site for more: UV Sterilizer Diverter Valves

INTERNAL UV STERILIZERS

With the above kit or similar in mind, please be careful of the relatively new Internal UV Sterilizers sold under a couple of brand names (same design) BUT rejected by several wholesalers and retailers due to the fact that they tend to leak internally damaging, destroying the electrical components of the Unit often resulting in complete failure in under a year. As well while these UV Sterilizers did perform a good job at clearing "green water"/Clarification (while functioning), in tests these UVs did a poor job performing Stage One Sterilization due to flow pattern and distance from the UV Bulb/Lamp inside the unit.
I personally rejected these units after Kokaho Aquarium and other users of these Internal UV Sterilizers found total failure of most or all of them within a year or often much sooner.
What is even worse is that a manufacturer of the most popular of these internal UVs had someone spam my YouTube video demonstration of how to install a custom UV on an aquarium using Internal Filters and I commented on their clear attempt to push this product that I in good conscience could not recommend (in fact I noted in my comment that it was an awesome idea, which it is, but failed in practicality). They had the audacity to call ME unprofessional implying that I had gone to their Video when in fact that were trying to peddle their product via a comment on my video (or for clarification someone who used one of them). I think I have a right to comment on my own video!!!
They also ended up with name calling when they could not change my mind stating that "I needed help".
Honestly in my opinion this is an act of desperation by a company that may have a good concept, but is failing to sell many due to the fact that many in this industry but for a few less than honest retailers refuse to stock these Internal UV Sterilizers (or "algae/green killing machines").
What is also sad, is that many have criticized me for some of the unique products I do sell (such as the Wonder Shell, Aquarium Cleaning Machine), yet I only sell/use in my service items that I and others in professionally aquarium maintenance use. In the case of the JBJ and other internal UV Sterilizers I would have loved for these to work, as I think this is a good idea, but I cannot honestly sell something that I know has flaws that will lead to product failure somewhere down the road. Basically I am in a can’t win situation with some people; damned if I recommend or damned if I don’t (as in the case of these junky Internal UV Sterilizers)!

UV Sterilizers and Bio Cube Aquariums or Internal Wet/Dry Bio Filters

2008-09-16T11:33:00.000-07:00

Updated 7/27/11

The Bio Cube Aquarium is a popular style of aquarium nowadays, although I have to laugh a little here as these are highly touted as a new way to keep small marine reef aquariums or planted freshwater aquariums while in reality the basic built- wet/dry filter system is nothing new to the hobby and in fact there is a new Internal Wet/Dry Bio Filter (made by the same manufacturer in China) that is less than half the cost of many Bio Cube Aquariums WITH the cost of an aquarium.
The ReSun BF 100 is the exact same filter/pump and can be used in (for example) a 20 gallon aquarium to turn it into a Bio Cube style aquarium.
The addition of good lighting such as CFL/SHO, T2, or LED Lights are also necessary for a "higher end" or advanced aquarium.
With a ReSun BF100 and your own aquarium set up the cost is often lower than many of the larger bio cube aquariums.

Anyway, the other point of this article/post is to point out that whether you use a Bio Cube Aquarium or a ReSun BF Wet/Dry Bio Filter, both of these filters systems lend themselves nicely (& easily) to a simple UV Sterilizer set up unlike say a HOB ("Hang on the back", Aquarium Power Filter) filter set up..
This is an advantage of a Bio Cube/BF 100 is that you can add a UV Sterilizer to not only lower the incidence of diseases, but just as importantly (or maybe more importantly) improve Aquarium Redox and improve fish disease resistance.

This is easily achieved by simply purchasing additional 1/2 to 5/8 inch ID tubing and running this tubing out of the aquarium to a UV Sterilizer (a 5 watt Terminator is pictured in the diagrams) and then inserting the return tubing back into the return slot on your BF 100 or Bio Cube Aquarium.

Please click on pictures below for a better view
This picture shows a 5 Watt Terminator UV Sterilizer connected to a 14 gallon Bio Cube Aquarium.
You can see how the tubing simply comes and out of the aquarium slots in the back of the aquarium (the slots can also be enlarged with a keyhole saw) and that the UV Sterilizer hangs easily on the back. My suggestion for most Bio Cube aquariums is a 5, 7, or 9 Watt UV Sterilizer.

This picture shows the simple mounting of a ReSun BF 200 with a Terminator 5 Watt UV Sterilizer. As with the Bio Cube application the way you add tubing is quite straight forward and as well the 5 and 9 Watt Compact UVs or the High Performance TMC 8 Watt Vecton UV Sterilizer would also be my suggestion (the Vecton is an excellent choice for those desiring a UV Sterilizer that is second to none in Sterilization abilities & reliability).

As a final note, for maximum UV Sterilizer efficiency, it is important to change your UV Bulb every six months.

Pond UV Tips

2008-06-15T14:00:00.000-07:00

Pond UV Clarifier Tips

* UV Clarifier/ Filter placement
A UV Sterilizer/Clarifier works best when the UV is place AFTER the filter. I know this contradicts some information I have read and this information is not necessarily wrong either, so let me explain further; By placing your Clarifier after the filter, you will remove debris that will otherwise make penetration of UVC light difficult, further more in my experience this will greatly reduce the amount of sludge buildup inside your Sterilizer/Clarifier, I will also note that the gimmicky wipers do not help much with problem. The reason some pond keepers recommend placing the filter after the UV Sterilizer is to trap algae that often clumps after passing through your clarifier, so as I noted this suggestion is not without merit. However in practical experience (along with knowledge of how uvc works), I have found that in an either or situation, the first suggestion of placing the filter first works best, this said, a pond keeper can always employ both methods for even better results, although even here I find this to make no discernable difference as to clarity, only to the amount of detritus/mulm buildup in the pond (of which controlling this via whatever means possible is certainly useful to good pond hygiene, although pond vacuums can be a useful tool here as well).

*Filters
This really goes without saying, but I will state the obvious (at least in my opinion, so please do not be insulted by my stating this point this way), USE ONE OR MORE pond filters.
Often I have had persons tell me that they bought a UV Clarifier only to realize that the new pond keeper figured the UV Sterilizer would take care of the Green Pond all by itself, which it will not. I strongly suggest a Veggie Filter in addition to a more traditional Pond Filter such as the Clear Stream Pressurized Filter, for further information about this subject, please read this article: “Aquarium and Pond Answers; Veggie Filters”.

Flow Rate
Maintain a proper flow rate to your UV Clarifier/Sterilizer either by using a slower pump or splitting the flow from your high GPH pump so as to send water to your UV at a slower rate. This is a common problem in poor UV Sterilizer installation, but easy to solve. This flow rate should be around 20-40 gph per watt, please see my Full UV Sterilization article for more about this subject: “UV Sterilization; how it works”

Please click on the picture above for a larger view at my full pond information article about how to properly connect a UV Sterilizer so as to achieve the correct flow rate

Do not waste time or money on gimmicks
I will not waste space addressing this other than stating gimmicks such as wipers or “twists” do little to improve UV Sterilization, other than lightening up your wallet.
Please read this Aquarium/Pond UV Blog Post for more about this subject: “UV Sterilizer Truths”

Maintenance
Clean your UV Sterilizer unit with each UV bulb change, which for a pond should be every season or every six months in warmer climates such as Southern California, Florida, Texas, etc. Make sure models with a quartz sleeve get the quartz sleeve cleaned as well, especially of hard water deposits (which wipers do little for).
For low price, first quality UV replacement bulbs follow either of these links (depending on your bulb type):
Standard UV Replacment Bulbs For T-5 & T-8 UV Replacement bulbs, 8 thru 50 watt; to fit Laguna, Emperor, Aqua, Aquanetics, Custom 15, Fishmate Compact, Hawaiian Marine Angstrom 2537® UV, Savio, Current USA Gamma and more.

Compact UV Replacement bulbs For (PLS, PLL, with G11 & G23 bases to fit 95% of UV Clarifiers/Sterilizers calling for this type of UVC bulb, please click the picture on the left.

Fish Immune and UV Sterilizers

2008-01-21T18:59:00.000-08:00

Fish Immune System and UV Sterilization

I have seen many comments posted in various places on the internet claiming that running a UV Sterilizer 24/7 will weaken the immune system in fish in part by creating a sterile environment.
I have tried to find more information as to how this myth got its start and the best I can come up with is that many are equating UVC radiation (emitted in UV Sterilizers) to Ozone produced by Ozone Generators

First even though I have not found an Ozone Generator as effective a most UV Sterilizers, even here properly used the Ozone is not added to the aquarium.
However more importantly is that a UV Sterilizer keeps ALL UVC radiation inside the unit and this reaction actually breaks apart free radicals and other oxidizers such as Ozone (similar to the reaction of Ozone and UV light energy in the upper atmosphere of Earth).

What is most important to note is that a properly installed UV Sterilizer will IMPROVE a fish’ immune system by creating a better Reducing Redox environment in the aquarium after water has passed through the sterilizer (providing it is a reasonably good unit such as the Custom I use or the Terminator amongst many other good units as well).
Here is a quote from "Aquarium Redox Potential":
"A proper Redox Potential improves the health of humans AND fish. A Redox Potential in the -200-400 mV range in human studies has been shown to have the same affect as anti-oxidant preparations such Vitamin C (and many others). In medical studies the enhanced oxidizing environment can facilitate the binding of pathogens or antigens to effector cells (a type of lymphocyte that are actively engaged in secreting antibodies) leading to a hyper-responsive innate immune system. Previous work has shown that an oxidizing environment leads to enhanced release of super-oxide and nitric oxide, activation and translocation of nuclear transcription factor and enhanced production of cytokines (proteins and peptides that are signaling compounds produced by animal cells to communicate with one another). The creation of a markedly reduced environment by addition of antioxidants blunts all of the above primary responses of the innate immune system."

In studies using human blood therapy, the use of UVC to irradiate blood, these are just a few of the findings:
*Improved circulation and oxygenation of tissues
*Anti-inflammatory effects
*Stimulation of the Immune System
*Increased Tolerance of the body to Chemotherapy and Radiation
*Cardiovascular protection
*Powerful Anit-Infection Properties
See this article for more: Oxygen Healing Therapies with UVC

It should also be noted that a UV Sterilizer cannot create a sterile environment as it cannot reach all aspects of the aquarium such as gravel, filter media, and the fish internally!

It is unfortunate that these false statements are still widely circulated, I recommend reading this article about UV Sterilization for more:
Ultraviolet Sterilization in Aquariums and Ponds

Or this article about Aquarium Redox:
Aquarium Redox Potential

Or even this article about Aquarium Calcium, GH, KH, pH (as this is also an important aspect as well to a healthy fish immune system):
CALCIUM, ELECTROLYTES, AND MAGNESIUM IN AQUARIUMS;

UV lamps

2007-12-24T09:59:00.000-08:00

UV (UVC) lamps (Bulbs) used in Aquariums and Ponds and how they work.

Updated 9/14/10

This post is primarily dealing with UV bulbs (or lamps which is a more correct term) emitting UVC radiation used in the Aquarium/Pond Industry, although I will discuss other UV bulb types as well since these may someday show up in the Aquatics Industry which tends to lag behind the mainstream technical, filtration, and other innovations in many ways such as in Aquarium Lighting (the SHO and T2 lights are good examples of where the Aquarium Industry has been slow to embrace these high performers in overhead aquarium lights).

There are two common UVC emitting lamps types currently employed: the low pressure and the medium pressure mercury lamp.

The low pressure lamp emits its radiant energy between 250-260 NM which is where UV Sterilization is most effective with a UVC efficiency of about 38%.

The medium pressure lamp emits its radiant energy between 250 and 350 with many energy spikes in between (most notably around 320 which is more in the UVB range) with a UVC efficiency around 7%.

Please click diagram to enlarge

The low pressure lamp used by most all Aquarium & Pond UV Sterilizers is clearly the better choice based on this information, however the low pressure lamp does have one flaw which the medium pressure lamp does not suffer from and that is the low pressure lamp is affected by water (or air) temperatures and operates best between 20 C (68 F) and 40 C (104 F). Generally this is not a major concern considering most aquarists operate their aquariums in well within this range. With ponds, this is still not a major concern in that most problems, including algae occur in warmer months. This problem can be also addressed with in-line heaters to pre-warm the water. Many UV Sterilizers come with quartz sleeves which form an air pocket between the lamps and water that in theory increases operating temperatures; HOWEVER my own tests have shown this improvement to be nominal at best especially when compared to a well designed direct contact UV Sterilizer. In a test with a custom 15 Watt UV Sterilizer and a 13 Watt Quartz sleeve UV Sterilizer (a well designed one at that), the increase in temperate was only 2 degrees F (I have observed up to 5 degrees depending on the units compared). This test started at 68 F and was conducted over 15 minutes, then water was removed from the units and the temperature measured. Unfortunately the quartz sleeve is accepted as a standard that sounds great in theory, but in practicality is not a true improvement in most applications (I would recommend them in some applications such as Lobster tanks, but even here a pre-heater would also be recommended).

Please see this article for much more about UV Sterilization: ULTRAVIOLET STERILIZATION (How UV sterilization works) . This article explains the benefits and myths about aquarium and pond uv sterilization

Now a potential improvement is the Amalgam High Output low pressure lamp. These lamps operate in a wider temperature range than standard low pressure lamps. These lamps are not without their problems too; even though not affected by water temperature fluctuations, these lamps can take 800 seconds to get to full power, and the warm up time is temperature dependant. The lamp life is often below the expected hours due to failure caused by the filaments becoming brittle and deposits of mercury oxide causing the ends to become black. This leads to poor heat dissipation and is the most probable failure mode. These lamps and the UV Sterilizers that contain them are also very expensive as well.

Another aspect of UV lamps that should be noted is how they function or start. Most quality UV lamps commonly used are Hot Cathode UV lamps. The Hot Cathode Germicidal UV Lamps are similar in their operation to the standard fluorescent lamps. The Hot Cathode lamp operates from a ballast or transformer and requires a device such as the glow switch starter to preheat the electrodes in order to start the lamp. The electrodes, located at the ends of the lamp, are tungsten filaments coated with emission material and, under normal operation, govern the life of the lamp. In view of the fact that the life of the electrodes is shortened by frequent starts, the lamp life is rated according to the number of times the lamp is started.
Operation at low temperatures may result in excessive lamp blackening and rapid depreciation in ultraviolet output.

References:
http://americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html
http://www.americanairandwater.com/lamps.htm

Pond UV Truths; Sterilizer, Clarifiers

2007-12-11T11:00:00.000-08:00

Pond UV Sterilizers vs. Aquarium UV Sterilizers; is there a difference?

Updated 7/15/11

The answer is yes and no.
This said I have had persons over the years tell me that a store (or web site) stated that a UV sterilizer that is made for a pond is even better for an aquarium; the truth is this is generally false, however for clarification, please read on!

Here is what one might look for in a Pond UV Sterilizer:

*Heavy duty construction so as to withstand the sun light and other elements. However any UV that is even indirectly protected form the elements (sun light, heavy rain or snow) will work fine for a pond (assuming otherwise good construction).

*Pre filtration of debris; this is probably the most important aspect of a pond UV Sterilizer in that most ponds have higher amounts of organics in the water as well as general debris that will both clog a UV Sterilizer and significantly block UV effectiveness.
However even most of the UV Sterilizers specifically designed for ponds have no more ability to carry out this function than other UV Sterilizers.
This function must be added by way of a pre-filter or standard pond filter by which the water passes through before the UV Sterilizer.

It should be noted that some pond UV Sterilizers come bulb “wipers”, but these gimmicks do not keep the quartz sleeve much cleaner than simply one without (they fail to remove hard water deposits well, which is the most common problem of UVC light blocking build-up on quartz sleeves).
Some claim that a quartz sleeve is necessary for pond UV sterilizers, this is only true for very cold ponds in which algae is not generally a problem anyway (this is not to say a Quartz sleeve is bad either as I have used many such as the Terminator or Premium TMC Pond Advantage UV Sterilizers that have quartz sleeves with good results).
In truth units with direct contact of water (such as the Custom 15 Watt UV Sterilizer or some Aquanetics models) actually clear many ponds in the summer just as effectively and are less fragile.
I had a recent customer go through two Tetra UV Sterilizers until trying out the custom UV, which performed much better (he lives in the warm summer climate of the Central Valley of California).

Lets now look at what is really needed for both aquariums AND ponds for a UV to be effective:

*For algae control an average UV Sterilizer (some need slower flow rates due to poor design) needs a flow rate of 40 -50 gph PER watt. The compact UVs generally require a slower flow rate of 40-45 while the straight tube UVs can have higher flow rates of 45-50, with the Terminator Advanatage & Vecton UV Clarifier working at flow rates of 50 gph per watt (or even higher) due to the exceptional flow design.

* For bacterial control an average UV Sterilizer needs a flow rate of 20-30 gph PER watt (some need slower flow rates due to poor design, while others such as the TMC can get by with the higher flows).

* For Redox control an average UV Sterilizer (some need slower flow rates due to poor design) needs a flow rate of 25-30 gph PER watt

* For parasite control an average UV Sterilizer (some need slower flow rates due to poor design) needs a flow rate of 8-10 gph PER watt (generally almost ALL UV Sterilizers work to control parasites more by indirect means such as improved water conditions such as Redox and lower suspended bacterial counts).

Now lets look at the claims of the Tetra Pond UV Sterilizer:
9 Watt UV
• Maximum water flow:
900 gallons per hour
• Maximum pond size:
1800 gallons

5 Watt UV
• Maximum water flow:
330 gallons per hour
• Maximum pond size:
660 gallons

How do they get a jump of almost triple flow for less than double wattage increase?
Second the flow rate claims for both are outrageous for both algae or bacterial control. 900 gph calculates out to 100 gph per watt which is ridiculous, so someone who purchases this for a pond or aquarium thinking this will due a better job due to high flow rate claims is sadly mistaken.

The bottom line is do not buy a UV Sterilizer such as the one listed above for your aquarium or pond under the mistaken belief that it can handle more since it is called a pond UV. This neither true for aquariums nor ponds.
This is also not to say that the above pond UV Sterilizer does not work, however it should not be purchased based on its claim of flow or simply because it is a "Pond" UV Sterilizer as that makes little difference in real world application.

If you are truly interested in high end UV Sterilizer for your aquarium that is primarily designed for ponds, consider a Pond UV Sterilizer with a high output (HO) UVC Bulb and longer exposure time based on a longer bulb (or quartz sleeve) and water contact via a UV with a design that utilizes this aspect of design.

A good example would be the TMC Pond Advantage 15, 25 & 110 Watt UV Sterilizers or the Aqua HO UV Sterilizers (although the Aqua units generally cost much more with less UVC/water contact time as compared to the TMC units).

In fact for larger ponds, you will not find a better UV Sterilizer/Clarifier in design, flow rate, durability, ease of obtaining replacement parts (which is where even many of the better UV Sterilizers fail), & over all effectiveness than the TMC line of UVs, which have long been recognized as a leader in Europe.
The picture above shows a breakdown of the TMC 110 Watt UV Sterilizer, Clarifier which is without equal for larger ponds (or even central aquarium systems), especially when price is considered.

For about this subject please read this article about UV Sterilization: Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilization; how it works, truths and myths

UV Sterilizers Gimmicks; 'Turbo' Twists, Baffles Wipers

2007-09-24T17:59:00.001-07:00

Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilizers Gimmicks; Baffles (Twists), Wipers, Filters with Built-In UV Sterilizers, Poor Ballasts, Proprietary UV-C bulbs/Lamps.
As well as simply over priced for the quality of the UV Sterilizer.

SECTIONS INCLUDED IN THIS ARTICLE/REVIEW:

Overview
Baffles, Twists; Coralife Turbo Twist
Wipers, Such as Aqua Models
Other Aqua Models
Ballasts (such as Jebo, Aqua Medic)
Built- In Pond Filter UV Sterilizers
Use of Proprietary UV Bulbs, Lamps
Summary

Updated 10/30/11

Overview

There are many gimmicks surrounding some UV Sterilizers currently on the market, some based in assumptions that are good, others not so much

I will emphasize as I have in earlier posts as well as my full Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilization Article that flow rate is the most important parameter as to UV Sterilizer effectiveness. This flow should be under 20-25 gph per watt for sterilization and 40-50 gph per watt for algae control (aka Clarification).
The other two important parameters is turnover rate and UV-C Penetration.

*Another often over rated UV part is the quartz sleeve (although not useless). Even though I use and recommend Via Aqua Terminator UV Sterilizers and others which have these, I have found little difference in units with and without them (the exception being cold water applications such as Trout). The quartz sleeve also needs to be cleaned upon changing the bulbs every six months to a year and sometimes more often.
This said, most all UV Sterilizers are designed with Quartz Sleeves, both top notch UV Sterilizers and low quality UV Sterilizers.

Baffles, Twists

The gimmicks come into play with baffles and other ideas to slow the flow rate inside the unit unfortunately these do little to help the flow and can even hinder UV light exposure (penetration) while in the unit (this is based on my experience and measured flow results!).

*The Coralife Turbo Twist is a popular UV unit (as Compact UV Sterilizers go), however the purchase of this unit over another unit based on this configuration is a waste of the extra expense in my experience as while the baffles may allow for more time in the UV Sterilizer, these baffles also keep much of the water flow at a greater than desired distance from the source of the UV-C light energy for a major portion of the time the water passes through this unit (which of much greater importance for UVC dwell time).
My tested results (by using a dye) showed a very slight increase in time of water inside the unit with comparable non-baffle units, however with tests for clarity (I dumped a measured amount of murky bacteria laden water), the Turbo Twist took a measurably longer time to clear than the non-baffle models (I used the Terminator) due to poor UV-C Penetration.

It is also noteworthy that the ballasts on the Coralife Turbo Twist are not the most durable UV due to severe ballast issues and this along with the twist/baffle feature often has me "baffled" (pardon the pun) as to why these UV Sterilizers are as popular as they are, especially when one considers that Coralife products otherwise have so-so quality reputation among many fish keepers (esepcially reef keepers).

Also see this review of the Coral Life Turbo Twist found here:
Coralife Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer/Clarifier

Or this other UV Sterilizer Reviews Article in the section dealing with Ballasts:
Weak or Poor UV Sterilizer Ballasts; Including Turbo Twist

I have achieved better UV Sterilization results with the better value Via Aqua Terminator UV Sterilizers and Custom UV Sterilizers.
Or for best results bar none, with the longer exposure time "per watt" and long term durability; the TMC Pond Advantage, Vecton UV Sterilizers for Aquariums or Ponds are second to none.

Wipers

*The new Wiper models that I have seen also do a poor job of removing calcium and other buildup and again are not worth the extra $. If you have a quartz sleeve make sure and clean it with acetone when you change your bulb to truly have a clean quartz sleeve (unlike wipers which are one of the biggest gimmicks to hit UV Sterilization in recent years IMO). The rubber gasket that is pulled across the quartz sleeve simply does not remove all the deposits and sometimes leave its own “trail of debris”. These also are easily torn or broken with regular use.
Bottom line, DO NOT spend the extra money!

Other Aqua Premium UV Sterilizers

This is not to knock the Aqua or similar UV Sterilizer/Clarifiers; these are excellent units with otherwise good designs. In fact their designs are industry standards for efficiency, however for less money, better yet design, and no wiper gimmicks you can have the same industry standard design in the TMC Pond Advantage/Vecton UV Sterilizers, which is recognized by many aquarium and pond keepers (especially in Europe as the best for both residential and industrial/commercial use!
As well the HO UV Bulbs used by the TMC 110 are superior to the Aqua Ultraviolet UV SL 100 in that they are less expensive to replace, less fragile, and along with the UV design, allow for much more UV-C Exposure time!
Based on my years of Aquarium and Pond design and maintenance, the Aqua is one of the better UV Sterilizers, but when you factor in their extremely high price and the fact that the TMC Pro line of UV Sterilizers are much less expensive for an arguably better designed and less expensive to maintain UV, the decision of which one to purchase is a "no brainer"

Cheap Electronic Ballasts

*Other poor UV attributes are the low quality electronic ballasts that many low end companies now use that are often only good for 6 months (such as Garden Treasures, Jebo, Aqua Medic).

Pond Filter "Built-In" UV Sterilizers

*One other UV gimmick is the UV Sterilizers that come built into many pond filters including a brand I highly recommend which is the Clear Stream Pond Filter. However I personally only recommend the units that come without the UV Sterilizers (unlike a few less honest pond supply retailers that sell these.). The problem is that most come with UVs ranging from 5 to 18 watts, the 9 watt is being the most common, so when you install this filter to a water pump that moves 2000 gph through a 9 watt UV you are effecting a 222 gph per watt rating which is TOTALLY useless.
Sadly these Pressurized Pond Filters with built-in UV Sterilizers are growing in popularity, with many otherwise excellent companies such as Via Aqua Pro Pond, Nursery Pro, and many many others building and selling these to uninformed pond keepers!

Please read this article which has a diagram that demonstrates how to correctly connect a UV Sterilizer to your pond filtration system: A Clear Pond, Pond Information and more

Proprietary UV Bulbs/Lamps

Also, although this is not a gimmick rather a scam IMO, and that us the use of proprietary UV-C replacement bulbs by some companies to force the UV purchaser to buy replacement bulbs from them at often triple OR MORE the cost of standard UV bulbs. Tetra is one of the biggest offenders here and should be ashamed of themselves! (Cal Pumps also has taken to this tactic with vastly more fragile G24 UV Bulbs).

Summary

FINALLY, be aware that many UV Sterilizers sold are made of very cheap material and have extremely low end electronic ballasts that have burned out in as little as 6 months (or even less) as per our own and others in the Aquarium/Pond maintenance business experience.
A few of the brands I have tried, used and REJECTED are; Aqua Medic, Jebo, JBJ and Garden Treasures. Avoid these brands unless you enjoy throwing money away!

For further information about UV Sterilization, please read my full article: Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilization; How UV Sterilizers works and more

New Aquarium UV ideas

2007-07-26T15:06:00.000-07:00

New Aquarium UV ideas:

Many already connect their UV Sterilizer in-line to a canister filter or sump pump, however a power head or internal power filter also makes an excellent power unit; what is needed is the right connection so as to not have kinked flexible tubing and to return water efficiently without mess.

The simplest method is to use an intake adapter that can either be DIY or purchased. From there you run your tubing to your UV Sterilizer, then back to the aquarium, finally returning your water via a return adapter which also can be DIY or purchased.
(Please click picture to the left to enlarge).

Intake Adapter

Return Adapter

This can work with standard UV Sterilizers or with Custom UV Sterilizers (which already come with a different hang on the back adapter).

Good UV Sterilizer Information

2007-06-26T16:13:00.000-07:00

I am writing this post not to brag, but to show the many doubters who continually listen to the anecdotal advice coming from many forums (Yahoo answers in particular) and elsewhere not only about UV Sterilization, but about aquarium keeping and pond keeping in general.
This is an email of a reader who made a long trip down to our warehouse based on reading my articles. He had read many of them (the UV Sterilization article in particular).
He then tried the custom UV Sterilizer, Wonder shells (based on my article about Aquarium KH, Calcium, & Electrolytes), and other methods suggested (not all methods results in the need to buy something either, many are DIY).

"Carl,

I wanted to let you know that your uv sterilizers are great! I have used them over the last week or so and my aquariums have never looked better. Your website speaks the truth. I have spent a lot of money on other filter devices, particularly very expensive protein skimmers, that do not do the same job as a simple uv sterilizer. I like your device more than my Coralife UV as yours has more secure connections and it has a nice flow.

My reef tank now has pristine, clear water. The inhabitants are doing well.

My discus tank has shown a dramatic improvement. Previously, the water was always slightly cloudy, even with multiple filters and daily water changes. Now, it is much cleaner. My discus are very large and although beautiful, they are sloppy eaters that produce a lot of waste. It makes no sense to keep a bacterial bloom in the water column, as you have pointed out! The color of the discus has improved. Previously, several of them would hang out near the back and they were very shy to eat. Now, with your UV unit, they all come out to the front of the tank and beg me for food. They have never acted that way in the past. They also appeared to have cleared small spots on them that I believe may have been a low grade hexamita infestation.

My planted tank is also improved with high intensity lighting and less algae growth noted. I had occasionally lost fish in this tank when newly added from the store and I believe that the odds of success have been greatly improved.

I wish you well and I hope that others read up on your site. I have been keeping fish for over thirty years and you have taught me a lot. I am reading about tropical fish constantly and it is very seldom that something new comes along. I give you a lot of credit. It is interesting to go back to some of the standard authors and texts in the hobby and compare your notes. I think that you have something to teach them.

I also appreciate your meeting with me to show me your products first hand. Please feel free to stay in touch with me. If you are ever in Roseburg, I would love to show you some very fine aquariums. Keep in the hobby so that you can keep up your skills.

Your friend,
Howard"

Aquarium UV Sterilizers; Misinformation

2007-04-24T13:37:00.000-07:00

I continue to follow the threads on forums, aquarium articles, and blogs about UV Sterilization.
It still amazes me much misinformation spread about this, some masked in science. As I have stated many times before, a UV Sterilizer is not essential for any aquarium, however even for goldfish I have had maintained tanks with as many variables (similarities) in place as possible and noted the differences and this includes thriving reef tanks.

What I also find interesting is that many of these same persons who trash them will then state a protein skimmer as essential. I have maintained tanks with and without Skimmers (again every other possible variable the same or as close as possible), and noted the changes in measurable parameters and found that yes they are useful, however often not by much and that Mud Filters, DIY DSB filters or similar can often replace them.

Now admittedly Protein Skimmer have come a long ways since I started in this business over in the late 1970s with vastly improved, more efficient, and with less hassles Protein Skimmer such as the TMC V2 Skim Protein Skimmers and similar high end skimmers. My point is not to trash Protein Skimmers (which have improved) but to only point out the hypocrisy of many in the marine keeping hobby that will insist on a Protein Skimmer while trashing a UV Sterilizer, despite the science behind their use

Back to the subject at hand, here is a thread I will comment on. In this thread one person who offered proof (albeit not of the perfect scientific nature, but as good as it can often be within this hobby) was attacked dog pile style without other backing up their statements other than criticizing his methods:

Arthur #1:
“If you read some scientific documents about UV sterilization of water you will know they talk usually about a standard long, 40W mercury UV tube in a 3" diameter lamp and water passing at the speed about 500 gph or less. This kind of setup delivers dosage of about 18,000 mW-sec/cm2. In order to increase this dosage you need to lower the water flow.
For example, 250 gph flow will in above mentioned lamp would be exposed to the almost double dosage of 34,000 mW-sec/cm2. This dosage is enough to kill bacteria, yeast, some mold spores, viruses and microalgae. And some aquarium grade lamps achieve this effect with unicellular algea.
To kill protozoa (like a well known from school "Paramecium" or our ich-causing "Cryptocaryon irritans") you would have to increase the dosage to the range of 200,000 mW-sec/cm2 !!!!! This would mean that if you had 3" diameter lab-grade UV lamp with a 40W mercury tube you could give it maximum water flow of 40 gph... How about that!”

My Comment:

First, most studies I have read show under 10,000 mW per se/cm2 for bacteria (Reference: UV Disinfection). Second, I have read articles that have shown 30,000 + mW-sec/cm2 with 90 watt bulbs at a rate of 200 + gallons per MINUTE (which even I find hard to believe; Reference; Triangular Wave), my point often it depends on whose data you look at. Third, there is more to treatment of Cryptocaryon than just out-right sterilization (I would not want it that high in my reef tanks!!!), there is also the Redox potential which Sterilizers improve and also general over all water quality that is aided by the addition of an Ultraviolet Sterilizer.
Finally each unit is different and there are many variables from age of the bulb (even a 3 month old bulb has lost 25%), to temperature, design of the unit, pre-filtration (a micron pre filter vastly improves sterilization), and to flow rate which I have found to be best at 20 gph (or less for most good units in aquarium applications).

Arthur #2 (edited):
I started keeping marine fish in 1975. I first added a UV sterilizer to my tank about 1977 or '78. It was an 8 watt unit. In the early '90s, I added another. In 2005, I went back to an 8 watt unit.

Without a hospital tank, adding a new fish was always hazardous. Back when I had no UV on the tank, once one of the fish started showing signs, the life expectancy of that fish was usually less than 3 days; they could not take the combined stress of the parasites and the copper treatment. Other fish in the tank would invariably show signs of infestation later, but would usually make it through. Once the first sterilizer was added, the rate at which the disease spread decreased; my theory is that some of the parasites were being killed in their free-swimming stage. After that, the first fish to show signs usually survived, and some of the other fish would never show any signs at all. Once I added the second sterilizer, I never lost a fish to Ich, though I did get the occasional infestation. In short, there was a direct relationship to the number of watts of UV and the intensity and rate of spread of the disease.
Since I was not religious in changing the UV bulbs (and the bulbs get less effective with time), I was also in a position to notice that an outbreak was worse when the sterilizer bulb was pretty old. Again, this didn't happen once I had two units running.

My Comment:

This person most likely had decent units with low flow rates, pre filtration, and useful discernment.
Without elaborating too much (my expanded articles have much about this), as stated earlier there are other aspects of UV Sterilizers such Redox Potential, this is not a hard test to perform; simply test the Redox without a UV and then run one for a week and test again, easy! So many person who trash persons like this have not considered all the variables if they have failed, myself I have seen UV Sterilizers not do a damn thing. These were often 8 watt Units running off a sump with a flow rate of 800 gph, a calcified quartz sleeve and poor pre filtration. This is not to say a 8 watt unit (or less) cannot work, just not under those conditions (and in the case a brand I will not mention, a poor mixing chamber design as well).
The 15 Watt Custom UV Sterilizer I made has performed well in most every application I have placed it in (The Terminator Compact UV Sterilizers do well too, one of the best compact UVs I have used, although the Standard TMC Vecton are the best when all types are considered).

What a UV Sterilizer is, is a tool for good aquarium husbandry along with water changes, filtration, Protein Skimmers and more. In many of my side by side applications with and without, the UV was just one more piece of the puzzle to improved water quality in let’s face it, an artificial environment (unless we want to kid ourselves). I can think of one experiment in particular with several goldfish tanks at a large service customer of mine. All these tanks in particular had canister filters, cleaning and the same feeding schedule and bio load; the only difference was UV Sterilizers. The difference in amount of diseased goldfish, growth and color was very noticeable (the vice president did not no we were performing this experiment and even commented about why some tanks did better than others, after which she had us install UV Sterilizers on all).

Copyright; Carl Strohmeyer

Please read my article about UV Sterilization for more: ULTRAVIOLET STERILIZATION (How it Works)

UV Sterilization Article:

2007-03-01T12:55:00.000-08:00

For an article with even more information about UV Sterilization, please read this article:

ULTRAVIOLET STERILIZATION (How UV sterilization works)
This article explains the benefits and myths about aquarium and pond uv sterilization;

• UV Sterilization Basics,

• Water Flow/Contact,

• Flow Rate Table

• Temperature/Quartz Sleeves
• UV Transmittance/Turbidity/Pre-Filtration

• UVC Penetration (Microwatts second/cm2)
• Effect of UV Sterilization on minerals, chemicals, etc.
• What size is best

• What is a Quality UV
• Sterilizer/Purifier Maintenance (Bulbs, Ballasts, etc.) • UV Bulb Maintenance

• Is Too Large a UV Sterilizer a Problem

• Facts/Myths about UV-C Sterilization
• In Depth information about UVC and how it works

• Other Uses for UV-C

• Summary
• Rebuttal to a false article about UV Sterilizers in aquariums
• Basic UV Installation Video using Power Head

For more information about pond applications (including a diagram for reducing flow), please see the UV Sterilizer section in this article: A Clear Pond; Pond Information

2006-03-25T09:53:00.000-08:00

A QUALITY UV

Proper UV sterilization starts with the proper UV, contact time, water turbidity, water temperature, bio load, and more. Proper filtration of the water before entering the UV sterilizer helps with turbidity, many UV’s now available do not have proper contact time or advertise too high a flow rate. I would recommend 20-45 gph per watt of UVC. If your pump rate is too high (after subtracting head pressure), I would add a diverter to your return line or a seperate pump for your UV.
I have produced a 15 watt UV that is extremely effective when installed properly.
Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilizers Quality UV Sterilizers

Be careful of some of the cheap uv sterilizers currently flooding the market such as the Aqua Medic, Jebo, etc, our service experience is poor with these units (leakage, poor sterilization patterns). If you obtain one of these units, you cannot make a fair assesment of what UV Sterilization can really do.

WHY SHOULD YOU USE AN ULTRA-VIOLET STERILIZER? (Educational information about how UV sterilization works)

BASICS (from the article ULTRAVIOLET STERILIZATION (How UV sterilization works)):

Ultra violet sterilization is one of the most effective means of disease prevention in aquariums and ponds and for general water quality control in aquariums and ponds (for reasons other than sterilization too!). UV Sterilization is also a useful tool for Pond algae control as well. There is a lot of new evidence as to the benefits of UV sterilization for ALL fish (and other aquarium inhabitants), and many myths have been dispelled such as “UV Sterilizers destroying beneficial nitrifying bacteria”, so please read on.

Ultra Violet Sterilizers (such as the custom 15 Watt UV) are also useful in Reef aquaria, especially new ones where the chance of disease introduction is high and the UVs help in keeping a balanced Redox Potential is useful. As the reef aquaria ages the sterilizer can be placed on a timer or turned on and off as needed.

The Redox Potential in aquariums is an often overlooked aspect of both freshwater and saltwater aquarists. The Redox Potential is basically the oxidation and reduction properties of water. This is VERY important for proper breakdown of organic waste!, especially in aquariums where the fish/invertebrates come from waters of low turbidity (African Cichlids) or tend to produce a lot of waste (Goldfish). Most experts agree that the proper Redox Potential should be -300-390 mV (less or more is not good, which is why a proper UV is excellent for this, as this is the range they tend to keep it at).

The key to success is water flow, water temperature and cleanliness of the bulb or quartz sleeve. It is important to have a flow rate that will turn over the pond or aquarium at least once or 1 ½ times per hour for disease prevention or every three hours for green algae control.
Example: 100 gph will service a 100 gallon pond well. The reason I mentioned such seemingly slow rates is too high a rate will not usually allow for adequate contact time with uvc radiation. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations for flow rate [our 15 watt model is 200-350 gph]. You also need to maintain a flow rate thru the UV of 20 gph per watt for germicidal or 40 gph per watt for green water control.
The other key is temperature. 60 to 85 degrees [F] has worked best for me.

Quartz sleeves help keep up a higher temperature (around 5 F in my tests) but don’t allow for as good of contact with the water and are difficult to keep clean, so in my opinion the benefits are a wash. Which brings me to key # 3, keeping the bulb or quartz sleeve clean? First, you want to change the bulb every 6 months for disease prevention or once every year at the beginning of the growing season for green algae prevention. You want to clean the quartz sleeve at this time too, which is one reason for a simple model without a quartz sleeve, use just throw away the dirty bulb. [Although the temperature aspects of a quartz sleeve are worthy of note].

Back to temperature; if your water is very cold (such as a pond or even well water treatment system), I would suggest pre-heating your water before it passes through your UV Sterilizer unit, this is more effective than a quartz sleeve.

Other factors of note are water turbidity (dissolved waste particulates in the water column, poor circulation (a poor flow pattern that that has the water pickup and return too close where too much water goes unfiltered). If these factors exist you will need a larger UV Sterilizer for an effective pathogen kill.

One argument against UV Sterilizers in ponds is that they are not natural, but for the clarity most persons want out of their pond, this is not possible without either UV sterilization or a flow thru stream (although many persons with well planted, well shaded ponds do well with clarity).
Many articles I have read state that a UV is not that beneficial to an established aquarium as a healthy aquarium depends on beneficial bacteria typically growing on media in your filter which neutralize ammonia. Unfortunately the problem with this statement is beneficial bacteria belongs in the filter, not in the open water. Also this is great for advanced aquarists who are not adding fish and have a healthy Redox Potential, but not in the real world of average and above average aquarists that I have dealt with in the 100s of aquariums I have serviced.

FOR MY FULL ARTICLE ABOUT UV STERILIZATION, please visit this article:
WHAT IS UVC; The benefits and myths about aquarium and pond uv sterililization
• UV Sterilization Basics
• What is a quality UV Sterilization Unit
• What size UVC Sterilizer is best
• Facts (and falsehoods) about UVC sterilization
• In Depth information about UVC and how it works
• UVC Penetration
• Rebuttal to a false article about UV Sterilizers in aquariums.

Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilizer, Clarifier Reviews; Problems, Bulbs

Electronic UV Sterilizer Ballasts; Lamp Problems

13 Watt UV Bulb; Purchasing Correct Replacement Lamp

Long Life, Easy Start UV Bulbs; are these Low Output Lamps worth purchasing

Internal, Submersible UV Sterilizer Filter, Pump; Review

Correct UV Sterilizer/Clarifier Applications

Aquarium UV Sterilizer Combinations

UV Sterilizer Problems & Reviews; Ballasts, Turbo Twist, Submersible Pond, Killing Machine UVC Clarifiers

EQUIPMENT, UV STERILIZERS:

OTHER POTENTIAL PROBLEMS:

Aquarium Green Water Control; UV Sterilizer

UV-C Air Purifers, Surface Disinfection, Ozone

Overview

Here are a few other pathogens and the required amount of UVC Iradiation (given in mW/cm2):

Ozone Production;

Types;

UV Sterilizer Questions/Myths Answered

UVC Irradiation and Immune Response, Aquarium Applications

UVC, Watts, Microwatts

Aquarium UV Sterilizer Ideas; Filter Combinations, etc.

UV Sterilizers and Bio Cube Aquariums or Internal Wet/Dry Bio Filters

Pond UV Tips

Fish Immune and UV Sterilizers

UV lamps

Pond UV Truths; Sterilizer, Clarifiers

UV Sterilizers Gimmicks; 'Turbo' Twists, Baffles Wipers

Overview

Baffles, Twists

Wipers

Other Aqua Premium UV Sterilizers

Cheap Electronic Ballasts

Pond Filter "Built-In" UV Sterilizers

Proprietary UV Bulbs/Lamps

Summary

New Aquarium UV ideas

Good UV Sterilizer Information

Aquarium UV Sterilizers; Misinformation

UV Sterilization Article: